Do You Take the Burlap Off When Planting a Tree?

The short answer depends on what kind of burlap you’re dealing with, but for most plantings, you should at least partially remove or cut away the burlap before backfilling the hole. The long answer is messier than you might expect. Researchers and arborists have debated this for decades, and even multi-year studies have not fully settled the question. What the evidence does show is that leaving burlap and wire baskets completely intact rarely kills a tree outright, but certain types of burlap can cause real problems for root growth if left in place.

Why This Is Even a Debate

Balled-and-burlapped trees (often called B&B trees) are dug from the ground at a nursery with a large root ball intact, then wrapped in burlap fabric and often secured with twine, nails, and a wire basket. The wrapping holds the root ball together during transport and handling. The question of whether to remove all that packaging at planting time has split the industry for years. Nursery growers and landscapers who favor leaving the materials in place argue that the root ball stays more stable during transplanting and the early establishment period, when the tree is most vulnerable to tipping over. Those who insist on removal worry that burlap and wire will block new roots from growing outward into surrounding soil, or even strangle roots that manage to push through.

A nine-year study tracking white ash trees assigned to three different planting treatments found that all trees survived regardless of whether burlap and wire were fully removed, partially removed, or left in place. Growth differences in trunk diameter and height over those nine years were only marginal.¹ A separate study on Norway maple and honeylocust trees found no detectable differences in stem size, twig growth, or rooting strength among removal treatments, concluding that wire baskets are not a cause of early tree mortality or instability.² So the research suggests that complete removal isn’t strictly necessary for survival. But survival is a low bar, and there are practical reasons the answer is more nuanced than “leave everything on.”

Natural Burlap Versus Synthetic Burlap

This is the single most important distinction, and it’s the one most homeowners miss. Traditional burlap is made from jute or hemp, natural fibers that soil microbes can break down over time. If you bury natural burlap, it will eventually decompose underground, though the timeline varies widely depending on soil moisture, temperature, and microbial activity. In warm, moist, biologically active soil, natural burlap may break down within a year or two. In compacted urban soil or cold clay, it can persist for several years, acting as a barrier to root growth during the critical establishment window.

Synthetic burlap, on the other hand, is made from polypropylene or polyester and will not decompose at all in any meaningful timeframe. It looks almost identical to natural burlap, sometimes with a slightly shinier or more uniform appearance, but the difference in the ground is enormous. Synthetic burlap left around a root ball will permanently restrict roots. If you’re unsure which type you have, try a simple test: hold a match or lighter to a small loose thread. Natural jute will burn to ash and smell like burning rope. Synthetic material will melt and bead up like plastic, because that’s what it is.

Any synthetic burlap must be completely removed before planting. There is no debate about this among arborists. The controversy only applies to natural burlap and the wire baskets that sometimes accompany it.

What to Do With Natural Burlap in Practice

Even with natural burlap, standard practice among most arborists is to remove as much as you reasonably can once the tree is positioned in the hole. The reason is straightforward: even biodegradable burlap takes time to break down, and during that time it can wick moisture away from the root ball, create a barrier between roots and the surrounding soil, and slow down the establishment process. A tree that establishes its root system quickly is more drought-resistant, more stable, and better equipped to fight off disease and pests.

The practical approach most professionals follow goes like this:

• Set the tree first: Lower the root ball into the planting hole with all the wrapping intact, since the burlap and wire are there to keep the ball from cracking apart during handling. Don’t try to strip everything off while the tree is still above ground.
• Cut away the top third: Once the tree is sitting in the hole at the correct depth, cut and fold back or remove the burlap from at least the top third of the root ball. This is the zone where new roots are most active and where burlap is most likely to be exposed above the soil line.
• Remove all twine and rope: Twine wrapped around the trunk is the most dangerous leftover material. As the trunk grows in diameter, twine that doesn’t decompose fast enough can girdle the trunk and kill the tree. Always cut and remove every piece of twine, especially anything looped around the trunk or the root flare.
• Pull back or remove the wire basket top: If the tree has a wire basket, fold down or cut away the top two or three rings. The bottom of the basket, buried deep in the hole, is far less likely to interfere with root growth.

If you can remove all the burlap without the root ball falling apart, go ahead. The root ball on a freshly dug tree with moist, clayey soil often holds together well enough. But if the soil is sandy or dry and the ball starts crumbling the moment you touch the burlap, you’re better off leaving the lower portion in place. A shattered root ball with torn and exposed roots is worse for the tree than burlap that takes a couple of years to decompose.

The Wire Basket Question

Wire baskets get their own share of anxiety from homeowners, and the fear is understandable: leaving metal wire around a tree’s roots seems like it should cause problems. But the research consistently shows that wire baskets are not the threat people assume. The wire used in nursery baskets is low-gauge steel that rusts and weakens in the soil over time. Roots that encounter wire typically grow around or through the openings in the basket without serious constriction.

The study on Norway maple and honeylocust trees specifically tested whether wire baskets affected rooting strength, which is a measure of how firmly the tree is anchored in the ground. There was no detectable difference between trees planted with wire baskets left on and trees with baskets removed.² The nine-year white ash study echoed this: all trees survived and grew similarly regardless of whether wire baskets were removed.¹

That said, removing the top portion of the wire basket is still smart practice. The upper rings sit close to the soil surface where root flare development matters most, and where the wire is most likely to be exposed to foot traffic, lawn mowers, or shifting soil. The bottom of the basket, buried deep in the planting hole, is effectively harmless. Many arborists split the difference by cutting away the top two or three horizontal rings and leaving the rest.

When Burlap Removal Matters Most

Not every planting situation carries the same risk from leftover burlap. Some conditions make removal more important.

In heavy clay soils, drainage is already poor. Burlap that stays wet can create a soggy layer around the root ball that discourages roots from growing outward, since roots tend to stay where conditions are comfortable rather than pushing into hostile, waterlogged soil. Removing burlap in clay gives roots a better interface with the surrounding soil from day one.

In very dry or sandy soils, the concern is different. Burlap exposed above the soil surface can act as a wick, pulling moisture up and out of the root zone through evaporation. This is particularly damaging in arid climates or during summer plantings. If any burlap is left in place, it absolutely must be buried below the soil surface so it cannot wick.

Trees planted in compacted urban soil face a tougher establishment environment in general. A broad review of pre-planting and planting factors affecting urban tree growth noted that burlap removal remains one of several disputed practices that have not been resolved despite years of study.³ In these challenging conditions, giving the tree every possible advantage makes sense, and removing burlap is a low-cost way to do that.

For trees planted in loose, well-drained, biologically active garden soil, the stakes are lower. Natural burlap in those conditions breaks down relatively quickly, and the root system faces fewer barriers to establishment regardless.

Planting Depth Matters More Than Burlap

Here’s something that often gets lost in the burlap debate: planting depth is a far bigger determinant of long-term tree health than whether you removed every last scrap of fabric. A tree planted too deep, with the root flare buried under several inches of soil, is at genuine risk of trunk rot, root circling, and slow decline over years. This problem is epidemic in both professional and homeowner plantings, and it kills far more trees than burlap ever has.

When you set a B&B tree in the hole, the first thing to do is find the root flare, the point where the trunk widens and the first major roots emerge. On many nursery-grown trees, the root flare is already buried under an inch or two of soil within the burlap. You need to scrape away that excess soil before planting so the flare sits at or slightly above the final grade. If you skip this step and plant the tree at the depth the nursery set it, you may be burying the flare four or five inches too deep, and no amount of careful burlap removal will compensate for that mistake.

The burlap around the top of the root ball needs to come off partly for this reason: if it sits above the soil line, it wicks moisture. If you bury it to hide it, you’re raising the soil level around the trunk. The cleanest solution is to cut it away from the upper portion entirely so the root flare is fully exposed and sitting at the right height.

Common Mistakes Homeowners Make

Beyond the burlap question itself, several related errors trip people up when planting B&B trees.

Leaving twine around the trunk is probably the most dangerous one. Nursery twine is often wrapped tightly around the base of the trunk to hold the burlap closed. Unlike burlap, which sits against the root ball, this twine is in direct contact with living bark. A growing trunk can be girdled by twine in as little as one or two growing seasons, cutting off the flow of water and nutrients. Always remove every loop of twine, wire, or string from around the trunk, even if you leave the burlap on the root ball.

Digging the hole too narrow is another frequent error. The planting hole should be at least two to three times the width of the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball’s height. A wide, shallow hole gives roots loose, aerated soil to grow into laterally, which is the direction most tree roots actually want to go. A narrow hole surrounded by compacted native soil creates a pot-like effect where roots circle instead of spreading.

Overwatering after planting can also interact badly with leftover burlap. If the burlap is holding moisture against the root ball while the surrounding soil is also being heavily watered, the roots sit in saturated conditions that promote rot. New B&B trees need regular watering during establishment, but the goal is consistent moisture, not saturation. If you left burlap in place, be slightly more conservative with watering and check the soil moisture at root ball depth before adding more.

Container-Grown Trees and the Burlap Comparison

If all this burlap business sounds like a hassle, you might be tempted to just buy container-grown trees instead. Container stock avoids the burlap question entirely, but it comes with its own set of root problems. Trees grown in pots for too long develop circling roots that wrap around the inside of the container. If those roots aren’t loosened, scored, or pruned at planting time, they can continue circling underground and eventually girdle the tree, sometimes not showing symptoms for a decade or more.

B&B trees generally have better root architecture coming out of the nursery because their roots grew outward into native soil before being dug. The trade-off is that digging severs a large percentage of the root system, so B&B trees experience more transplant shock and need more attentive watering during establishment. Container trees keep their entire root system but may have structural root problems baked in from years in a pot. Neither method is inherently superior; they just demand different attention at planting time.

What About Bare-Root Trees

Bare-root trees are a third option that sidesteps both the burlap and the container issue. These are sold dormant, with no soil around the roots at all. They’re lighter, cheaper, and easier to handle, and you can see the entire root system before planting, making it easy to prune away any damaged, crossing, or circling roots. The catch is that bare-root trees are only available during dormancy (late fall through early spring, depending on your climate), they dry out quickly if not planted promptly, and they’re generally limited to smaller caliper sizes.

For homeowners planting one or two trees, bare-root stock from a reputable nursery is often the best option when it’s available. You get full visibility of root structure, no packaging to deal with, lower cost, and research consistently shows that bare-root trees establish as well or better than B&B trees of the same species and size. The main limitation is selection: if you want a large specimen tree for immediate visual impact, you’ll likely be buying B&B, which brings you back to the burlap question.

How Soil Biology Affects Burlap Breakdown

One reason the burlap debate persists is that decomposition rates vary enormously depending on local soil conditions. Natural burlap is a plant fiber, and like any organic material, it breaks down when soil fungi and bacteria go to work on it. The speed of that process depends on moisture, temperature, oxygen levels, and the diversity of the microbial community.

In rich, warm, well-aerated garden soil teeming with microbial life, natural jute burlap can lose most of its structural strength within a single growing season. In compacted urban fill, cold northern clay, or extremely dry sandy soil, the same burlap might persist largely intact for three years or longer. This variability is part of why the research results are mixed and why the debate hasn’t been cleanly resolved. A study conducted in loamy Midwestern soil may find that burlap poses no barrier to root growth because it was halfway decomposed before the roots even reached it. The same study in compacted roadside fill might yield different results.

For homeowners, the practical takeaway is that if your soil is biologically active, well-drained, and amended with compost, leftover burlap is less of a concern. If your soil is compacted, poorly drained, or relatively sterile from construction disturbance, take the extra time to remove as much burlap as possible. You’re essentially betting on your soil’s ability to digest the material before it becomes a problem, and in poor soil, that’s a bet worth hedging against.