Pothos plants are popular for their adaptable nature and attractive foliage. Discolored leaves often signal a correctable issue, and understanding these signs helps restore your plant’s health.
Why Pothos Leaves Turn Yellow or Brown
Overwatering often causes yellow, soft, or mushy leaves, starting at the base, with black, limp stems, potentially leading to root rot. Underwatering, conversely, results in yellow and brown leaves that are crispy or brittle, usually starting from the edges, and the plant may wilt or droop.
Too much direct sunlight can scorch Pothos leaves, causing yellowing, bleached patches, or brown, crispy spots. Insufficient light leads to general yellowing and leaf drop, and variegated varieties may lose their patterns.
Nutrient deficiencies cause discoloration; nitrogen deficiency leads to uniform yellowing, especially in older leaves, while magnesium deficiency causes yellowing between leaf veins while the veins themselves remain green. Temperature stress, from sudden drops below 60°F (15°C) or consistent exposure outside 65-85°F (18-30°C), can also cause leaves to curl, droop, or yellow.
Pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale cause yellowing and leaf drop. Diseases such as bacterial leaf spot create water-soaked lesions with yellow halos, and Pythium root rot (linked to overwatering) leads to yellow leaves and mushy black stems. Additionally, older leaves naturally yellow and drop as part of the plant’s aging process.
Solutions for Discolored Pothos Leaves
Allow the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry before watering. For overwatered plants, stop watering and let the soil dry; if root rot is suspected, remove the plant, trim mushy roots with disinfected scissors, and repot in fresh, well-draining soil. For underwatered Pothos, water thoroughly until drainage occurs, or consider bottom watering.
Move scorched or bleached leaves away from direct sunlight to bright, indirect light, such as an east or north-facing window. If yellowing is due to insufficient light, relocate the Pothos to a brighter area or use an LED grow light.
During the growing season (spring and summer), use a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer monthly or bi-monthly. If specific nutrient deficiencies are identified, use a targeted fertilizer.
Maintain indoor temperatures between 65°F and 85°F (18°C and 30°C). Avoid placing the plant near drafty windows, heating vents, or air conditioning units.
For pests like spider mites, mealybugs, or scale, wipe leaves with a damp cloth or rubbing alcohol; insecticidal soap or neem oil can also be effective. If bacterial leaf spot is present, remove infected leaves and improve air circulation; severely infected plants may need discarding.
Regularly remove naturally yellowed or brown leaves by pinching them off at the base. This redirects the plant’s energy to healthy growth.
Preventive Pothos Care
Use a pot with adequate drainage holes to prevent water accumulation and root rot. A well-draining potting mix, possibly amended with perlite or orchid bark, ensures good root aeration.
Water your Pothos when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry, typically every 1-2 weeks. Avoid rigid schedules; check soil moisture regularly.
Provide bright, indirect light. Position the plant near an east, west, or north-facing window for suitable illumination. This promotes healthy growth and maintains leaf variegation.
During spring and summer, fertilize monthly or bi-monthly with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Reduce or halt fertilization during fall and winter.
Pothos thrive in 40-60% humidity. Boost humidity by grouping plants, using a pebble tray, or a room humidifier.
Regularly inspect leaves, stems, and soil for early signs of discoloration, wilting, or pest activity. Early detection allows for timely intervention before issues become severe.