Why Is My Money Tree Dropping Leaves?

The Money Tree (Pachira aquatica) is a popular houseplant known for its distinctive braided trunk and glossy, palmate leaves. While generally resilient, this tropical species often sheds foliage when stressed. Leaf drop is the plant’s primary signal that its environment or care routine needs immediate adjustment.

Watering Mistakes

Improper watering is the single most frequent cause of leaf drop for Pachira aquatica. Overwatering is often the more damaging issue because consistently soggy soil prevents oxygen from reaching the roots, leading to root rot. This results in yellowing leaves that may feel soft or mushy, sometimes with brown spots ringed by yellow, followed by a sudden, massive leaf drop.

Conversely, an underwatered Money Tree displays leaves that turn brown and become dry or crispy at the edges before they drop off gradually. The soil will be bone-dry and may pull away from the sides of the pot. A reliable method is the finger test: insert a finger about two inches into the soil, and if it feels dry, water thoroughly until the water drains out of the bottom.

It is important to ensure the pot has drainage holes, as allowing the roots to sit in standing water is a direct path to root rot. The plant’s thick trunk is adapted to store water, which is why it prefers the soil to dry out partially between waterings. Proper drainage and checking the soil moisture before watering are the most effective preventative measures against hydration stress.

Light and Location Stressors

Money Trees thrive best in bright, indirect light conditions, which mimic their native tropical understory environment. Insufficient light is a common stressor that causes the plant to shed leaves, particularly older ones, as it cannot produce enough energy to sustain all its foliage. If the plant is placed in an area that is too dim, the remaining leaves may also become pale or display leggy growth.

The opposite extreme, direct and intense sunlight, can cause leaf drop by scorching the foliage, resulting in yellowing or brown spots that are dry and brittle. A sudden change in location is another major trigger for leaf loss, known as transplant shock. Moving the plant can cause it to drop leaves as it adjusts to the new light, temperature, and humidity levels.

Temperature stability is a significant factor, as these tropical plants prefer temperatures between 65°F and 80°F. Exposure to cold drafts, such as those from open windows or air conditioning vents, can shock the Money Tree and cause an immediate, dramatic leaf drop. Avoiding placement near heating or cooling sources and maintaining a consistent ambient temperature is necessary to prevent this environmental stress.

Pests and Nutrient Issues

Infestation by common houseplant pests is a serious cause of leaf drop. Sap-sucking insects like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale feed on the plant’s vital fluids, weakening it and leading to discoloration and eventual leaf shedding. Spider mites often leave fine, wispy webbing, while mealybugs appear as small, white, cottony masses, typically found in leaf axils. Scale insects present as small, stationary bumps on the stems or undersides of leaves.

Nutrient deficiencies are rarely the primary cause of leaf drop, but a lack of nitrogen can cause older leaves to yellow and drop prematurely. However, over-fertilizing is a more frequent issue for indoor plants, where the buildup of excess mineral salts can burn the roots. This condition, known as fertilizer burn, prevents the plant from absorbing water and can mimic the symptoms of underwatering or root rot, leading to widespread leaf loss.

Long-Term Care for a Healthy Money Tree

Once the cause of leaf drop has been identified and corrected, establishing a consistent care routine is paramount for long-term health. The Money Tree benefits from a moderately humid environment. Increasing localized humidity with a pebble tray filled with water or grouping it with other plants can help prevent the brown, crispy leaf edges associated with dry air.

Pruning any yellowed, damaged, or dead foliage helps the plant redirect its energy toward new, healthy growth and improves air circulation. Fertilization should be reserved for the active growing season (spring through early fall), using a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength. During the winter months, the plant naturally enters a period of rest, and both watering frequency and fertilization should be reduced significantly.