Why Are the Ends of My Peace Lily Turning Brown?

The glossy, deep green leaves of the Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) make it a popular indoor plant, but brown tips, known as leaf necrosis, are a common frustration. This browning is rarely a sign of disease but rather a physical symptom indicating an imbalance in the plant’s immediate environment. Identifying the specific environmental stressor is the first step toward restoring the plant’s lush appearance. The problem often stems from issues related to water management, either in the soil or in the air surrounding the tropical plant.

Watering Habits and Dry Air

Inconsistent watering is a frequent culprit for brown leaf tips. Allowing the Peace Lily to dry out too much between waterings forces the plant to pull moisture from the furthest parts of its foliage, causing the tips to dry and become brittle. Conversely, chronic over-watering can also lead to the same symptom, as constantly soggy soil suffocates the roots. Stressed roots cannot efficiently draw up water, which leaves the foliage dehydrated and results in tip burn.

The Peace Lily is native to the tropical forest floor and requires high atmospheric moisture. Typical indoor air, especially when central heating is used, is often too dry and causes rapid moisture loss from the leaves through transpiration. Low humidity causes the tissue at the leaf tips to desiccate and turn brown because the plant cannot absorb enough water to compensate for the moisture lost. Increasing the moisture around the plant can be achieved by placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water or by grouping it with other plants.

Mineral Salt Buildup and Fertilizer Burn

The quality of water used can directly cause the browning of leaf tips in Spathiphyllum. Tap water frequently contains dissolved mineral salts, such as fluoride, chlorine, and hard water components. As the plant absorbs water and moisture evaporates, these mineral salts accumulate and concentrate at the leaf tips and margins. This high concentration of salts causes localized tissue death, visible as brown tips.

A related issue is fertilizer burn, which occurs when too much fertilizer is applied. Fertilizer is composed of various salts, which, in excess, create a highly concentrated solution in the soil. This high salt content can draw moisture out of the roots, a process called reverse osmosis, preventing the plant from hydrating effectively. A white, crusty residue on the soil surface or pot exterior is a sign of excessive salt buildup. To correct this, the soil must be “flushed” by slowly pouring a large volume of water—at least four times the volume of the pot—through the soil to wash out the excess salts.

Light and Temperature Exposure

Though Peace Lilies tolerate low-light conditions, they are susceptible to damage from intense direct sun exposure. The plant’s natural habitat is beneath a dense canopy, receiving only dappled or filtered light. Direct sunlight can cause the delicate leaf tissue to scorch rapidly, resulting in large brown or bleached patches that often begin at the edges and tips.

Temperature fluctuations and extremes also introduce stress that manifests as tip browning. The plant thrives in consistent temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Exposure to cold drafts from windows or air conditioning vents, or sudden blasts of hot air from heating vents, can shock the foliage. This thermal stress disrupts the plant’s internal water balance, leading to the rapid dehydration and browning of the leaf tips.

Immediate Steps to Restore Plant Health

The brown tips on existing leaves are dead tissue and will not revert to green, so the first step in restoration is cosmetic pruning. Use clean, sharp scissors to carefully cut off the brown sections, following the natural curve of the leaf to maintain its shape. If a leaf is more than half brown or severely damaged, remove the entire leaf at its base to allow the plant to redirect energy toward new, healthy growth.

After pruning, a comprehensive prevention strategy is necessary to ensure the new growth remains green.

  • Commit to checking the top inch of soil moisture before watering to establish a consistent hydration schedule.
  • Switch to using filtered, distilled, or rainwater, or let tap water sit out overnight to allow chlorine to dissipate, mitigating mineral salt accumulation.
  • Increase the humidity around the plant using a pebble tray or a humidifier.
  • Relocate the Peace Lily away from all sources of direct light and temperature drafts.