The Pothos plant (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant known for its cascading vines and simple care requirements. The small bump on the stem known as the node is the site of attachment for the leaf petiole. This specialized region contains meristematic tissue, which are essentially the plant’s stem cells. The node’s function is to initiate new growth (both roots and shoots), making it the engine for successful propagation.
A healthy node appears firm, often slightly raised, and its color generally matches the stem’s vibrant green or yellow-green hue. A small, brown nubbin may also be visible, which is a healthy aerial root primordium preparing to emerge. This regenerative tissue allows a cutting to develop into a fully independent plant, as a leaf cutting alone lacks this ability.
Diagnosing the Cause of Brown Pothos Nodes
When a Pothos node turns brown, the cause is usually determined by the texture and specific shade of the discoloration. The most common issue is rot, which occurs when the node is kept too wet without sufficient oxygen (such as in stagnant propagation water or overly saturated soil). A node suffering from rot will appear dark brown or black, feel soft or mushy, and may have a foul odor, indicating fungal or bacterial activity breaking down the tissue.
Conversely, the node might be suffering from desiccation (extreme drying), typically when the cutting is exposed to low humidity or allowed to dry out. In this scenario, the node will be a lighter tan or light brown color and feel hard, dry, and shriveled. This condition is common when attempting to root cuttings in air or in a medium that is not kept consistently moist. A third possibility is physical damage, where the node was crushed or scraped during handling, leading to a localized brown spot.
Actionable Steps for Saving Damaged Nodes
If the node is brown, soft, and mushy, indicating rot, immediate intervention is necessary to prevent spreading to the healthy vine.
Treating Rot
First, use a sterilized blade (such as a sharp razor or shears wiped with rubbing alcohol) to sever the entire affected section. You must cut back past the dark, soft tissue until only healthy, firm, green stem remains. After cutting, allow the fresh wound to air-dry for several hours until a dry, protective layer forms, a process called callousing. To further treat minor rot or prevent its return, you can soak the remaining healthy cutting in a diluted solution of hydrogen peroxide and water for a few minutes before placing it in a new, sterile rooting medium. For future propagation, switch from pure water to a less stagnation-prone medium like perlite, sphagnum moss, or fresh, well-aerated water changed every few days.
Treating Desiccation
For nodes that are hard and desiccated, the solution is to increase hydration and ambient moisture. If the cutting is in a rooting medium, ensure the medium is consistently damp, but not waterlogged. Increasing the surrounding humidity, perhaps by placing the cutting inside a clear plastic bag or container, can help rehydrate the node and encourage new root development. Monitoring the node closely after rehydration is important, as a desiccated node may not recover its regenerative capability if the damage is too extensive.