Cyclamen is a widely admired flowering plant, prized for its distinctive, upswept petals and marbled foliage that brings color to the cooler months. The dormant, round storage organ of this plant is often mistakenly called a bulb, but it is actually a tuber. Correctly orienting this tuber during planting is crucial for successful growth and flowering. This guide provides practical advice to help you plant your cyclamen correctly.
Understanding the Cyclamen Tuber
The cyclamen’s underground storage unit is a tuber, a swollen, modified stem, not a true bulb like a tulip or daffodil. Unlike layered bulbs, the cyclamen tuber is a solid, fleshy mass that stores nutrients and moisture. This distinction is important because the tuber lacks the obvious basal plate found on true bulbs.
The tuber is typically round and flattened, often resembling a disc. Its surface has two distinct sides that determine its proper orientation. The bottom side, where root development occurs, is generally smoother and sometimes slightly domed.
The top side is known as the crown, which is often flatter or slightly concave. This is where the plant’s growth points, or “eyes,” are located, and new leaves and flower stems emerge from these nodes. Occasionally, small, wiry remnants of old stems or tiny shoots are visible on the crown.
Determining the Correct Planting Orientation
The most critical step is ensuring the crown faces upward so new shoots grow directly toward the light. Plant the tuber with the flat or slightly concave surface facing up and the smoother, rounded side facing down into the soil. The upward-facing crown contains the dormant or active growth buds.
The bottom surface anchors the primary root system, drawing water and nutrients from the soil. Planting the tuber upside down forces the emerging shoot to expend energy curving through the soil to reach the surface. This often results in delayed sprouting, weakened initial growth, or failure to emerge.
If the tuber lacks visible shoots, look for subtle clues on the crown, such as small dimples or rough patches where previous growth was attached. If the tuber is perfectly smooth and symmetrical, and orientation cannot be determined, plant it on its side. Planting sideways minimizes the distance the shoot must travel to correct its position, increasing the chance of successful emergence.
Successful Planting Depth and Soil
Planting depth must be shallow, as planting too deeply can inhibit flowering and cause the tuber to rot. For hardy cyclamen varieties, the top of the tuber should be visible just at the soil surface or barely covered by no more than an inch of soil. For indoor cyclamen, keep the top of the tuber exposed completely to promote air circulation and prevent decay.
The ideal soil medium must be highly porous and well-draining to prevent soggy conditions. A humus-rich mix, incorporating materials like leaf mold or compost, provides necessary organic content. If the soil contains heavy clay, incorporating grit or sand will significantly improve drainage around the tuber.
The best time to plant dormant tubers is in the late summer or early autumn, aligning with their natural growth cycle. After planting, provide a thorough initial watering to settle the soil. Subsequently, allow the soil to dry out moderately between waterings, as cyclamen tubers are prone to rot if kept saturated.