The Split-Leaf Philodendron, or Monstera deliciosa, is a popular houseplant due to its dramatic, fenestrated foliage. Propagating this plant from cuttings is a straightforward way to create new plants or manage the size of a mature specimen. Success depends entirely on knowing precisely where to make the cut on the stem. Understanding the plant’s anatomy and following careful steps encourages a new, healthy root system to develop from a small section of the parent plant.
Understanding the Anatomy for Successful Cuttings
Successful propagation relies on identifying the node, a specific growth structure on the stem. The node is a slightly swollen area where a leaf petiole attaches to the main vine. This region contains the cells capable of producing new roots and a new growth point for the plant. A cutting without a node will not develop into a new plant.
The presence of an aerial root near the node is an excellent indicator of a viable cutting, though it is not strictly required. These brown structures are naturally produced by the Monstera to anchor itself and absorb moisture. Including an aerial root can give the cutting a head start in root development. Always ensure the selected stem section has at least one node, ideally with a healthy leaf attached to support photosynthesis.
Precision Cutting: Locating the Optimal Spot
To create a viable cutting, you must select a stem section that includes a leaf, a node, and a short length of stem below the node. The cut must be made carefully to maximize the surface area for root growth while leaving the node intact. Use a sterile, sharp tool, such as pruning shears or a clean knife, to prevent introducing pathogens. Sterilizing the blade with rubbing alcohol before and after the cut is necessary.
The precise location to sever the stem is about one-half to one inch directly below the node you wish to propagate. Cutting too close risks damaging the tissue responsible for root initiation, while cutting too far below leaves a stem prone to rot. Make a single, clean cut across the stem, which is safer than attempting an angled cut. The goal is to isolate a segment, often four to six inches long, with at least one leaf and one node at the bottom.
Immediate Care for the Fresh Cutting
Once the cutting is separated, the newly exposed stem tissue requires a brief period of air-drying before being placed into a rooting medium. This drying process, known as callusing, allows a protective layer of scar tissue to form over the wound. Callusing minimizes the risk of the cutting absorbing too much water and succumbing to fungal or bacterial rot. Allowing the cut end to dry for a few hours, or even overnight, is sufficient for the Monstera.
Applying a rooting hormone to the callused cut end of the stem is a beneficial step. Rooting hormone, typically a powder or gel, can accelerate the formation of new roots from the node. Simply dip the cut end and the node into the powder or gel. Some growers also use natural alternatives like willow water or powdered cinnamon, which possesses natural antifungal properties, to protect the wound and stimulate growth.
Choosing Your Rooting Medium
The choice of rooting medium affects both the speed of root development and the ease of the eventual transition to soil. Water propagation is the most visually satisfying method, allowing you to monitor root growth directly as the roots emerge from the node. The cutting is placed in a clear jar with the node submerged, and the water must be changed every few days to prevent the growth of algae and bacteria. The roots that develop in water are often thinner and more fragile, which can lead to a slight shock when the plant is finally moved to soil.
Sphagnum moss offers an excellent balance of moisture retention and aeration, closely mimicking the plant’s natural growing conditions. The moss should be thoroughly moistened, then squeezed until it is damp but not dripping wet, before being packed around the node and kept in a humid environment. Roots grown in sphagnum moss tend to be more robust and transition to a soil mix with less difficulty than water-grown roots. Alternatively, the cutting can be planted directly into a well-draining soil mix, ensuring the node is buried about one inch below the surface. Direct soil planting avoids transplant shock entirely, but it makes monitoring the initial root development impossible, requiring patience and careful moisture management.