Hazelnut trees (Corylus) are valued for their rich nuts and adaptability. A successful harvest requires informed decisions about where to source trees and which specific varieties will thrive in your location. Understanding the available options and the biological requirements of the species will guide you toward a productive selection.
Sources for Purchasing Hazelnut Trees
The most diverse selection of cultivars is typically found through dedicated online nurseries specializing in fruit and nut trees. These retailers often ship bare-root stock during the dormant season, offering a wide range of types and sizes. They frequently provide detailed information on disease resistance and pollination requirements, but shipping adds cost and requires careful handling to prevent roots from drying out.
Local garden centers offer the convenience of purchasing a tree you can physically inspect, often in a container with a live root ball. While this allows for immediate transport and planting, the selection of hazelnut cultivars is usually limited to varieties best suited for the immediate region.
For larger orders or expert advice on commercial varieties, specialized fruit and nut tree growers or agricultural co-ops are the optimal choice. These operations cultivate the most recent, disease-resistant releases and provide guidance for volume planting.
Selecting the Right Cultivar and Tree Type
The primary factor influencing cultivar choice is resistance to Eastern Filbert Blight (EFB), a devastating fungal disease. European hazelnuts (Corylus avellana) produce large, commercially desirable nuts but are highly susceptible to EFB, which can kill a tree within five to ten years. American hazelnuts (Corylus americana) are native and naturally tolerant, surviving indefinitely with minimal damage, but their nuts are smaller.
Modern breeding programs have introduced hybrid cultivars that combine the superior nut quality of the European type with the disease resistance of the American species. Cultivars like ‘Jefferson,’ ‘Yamhill,’ and ‘Santiam’ carry the single dominant resistance gene, making them the preferred choice in EFB-prevalent areas. Successful cross-pollination requires selecting at least two different, compatible cultivars, as most hazelnuts are self-incompatible. Pollen is wind-transferred, and since male catkins and female flowers often mature at different times, a second variety is required to ensure nut set.
Essential Considerations Before Final Purchase
Hazelnut trees are typically sold in two forms: bare-root or container-grown. Bare-root trees, sold while dormant, are generally more affordable and allow for easy inspection of the root structure for health and lack of breakage. This stock is only available between late fall and early spring and must be planted quickly to prevent the roots from drying out.
Container-grown trees offer a longer planting window, as they can be planted throughout the growing season. However, they require careful inspection for “pot-bound” roots, where circling roots can lead to girdling and poor establishment after planting.
Regardless of the form, inspect the trunk for mechanical wounds or signs of disease. If the tree is a grafted cultivar, look for a clean, undamaged graft union. Checking the nursery’s warranty or guarantee policy is a necessary final step to secure your investment against non-viability.
Receiving and Preparing Your New Trees
Once your hazelnut trees arrive, prompt and proper handling is necessary, especially if you have purchased bare-root stock. Immediately unpack the trees and inspect them for any shipping damage, noting broken branches or dried-out roots. If the bare roots feel dry, soak them in water for a few hours to rehydrate the fine root hairs.
If you are unable to plant the trees immediately, they must be temporarily stored using a process called “heeling in.” This involves digging a shallow trench or using a container and covering the roots completely with moist soil, sand, or wood shavings to keep them cool and damp. The roots must remain covered until planting, which should occur before the tree breaks dormancy. Having the planting holes prepared, along with necessary soil amendments, will minimize transplant shock.