Wool is a versatile natural fiber used for thousands of years to create textiles. It is a protein fiber obtained from the fleece of various animals, primarily sheep, and valued for its warmth, durability, and comfort. Its historical significance is profound, traceable to around 6000 BCE in the Near East, where ancient civilizations like the Sumerians and Egyptians utilized it for clothing and trade.
Sheep as the Main Source
Sheep are the most common and primary source of wool worldwide, with over 1,000 different breeds contributing to the global wool supply. The wool from sheep is composed mainly of a protein called keratin, which gives the fiber its elasticity and strength. Different sheep breeds produce wool with varying characteristics, making them suitable for diverse applications.
Merino sheep, for instance, are renowned for producing exceptionally fine and soft wool, often used in high-quality garments worn close to the skin. Merino wool fibers are significantly finer than typical sheep’s wool, measuring between 15.5 and 24 micrometers, which contributes to its non-itchy feel and excellent temperature-regulating properties.
Shetland sheep, originating from the Shetland Islands, yield a fine, soft, and strong wool with a unique crimp that provides elasticity and loft. Their wool comes in a wide range of natural colors, from white to deep black, and is often used for knitting and durable garments.
Romney sheep produce a more versatile, medium-grade wool that is known for its luster and suitability for various textile purposes.
Other Animal Sources of Wool
Beyond sheep, several other animals contribute fibers commonly referred to as “wool” or used similarly in textiles, each possessing distinct properties.
Alpaca fiber is recognized for its softness, fineness, and warmth, often compared to cashmere. It is also lighter, stronger, and more resilient than sheep’s wool, and its lack of lanolin makes it hypoallergenic.
Cashmere comes from the soft, downy undercoat of Cashmere goats, primarily collected by hand-combing during their spring molting season. This fiber is highly prized for its luxurious softness and warmth.
Mohair, another goat fiber, originates from Angora goats and is known for its distinctive sheen and durability.
Angora wool is harvested from Angora rabbits and is exceptionally soft and fluffy, making it suitable for delicate garments.
Llama fiber, from llamas, has a hollow core that provides superior insulation and makes it lightweight, often softer than sheep wool, and it is also lanolin-free.
Harvesting the Fiber
The process of obtaining wool varies depending on the animal, with shearing being the most common method for sheep. Shearing involves carefully removing the entire fleece, typically once a year. This practice is essential not only for wool production but also for the sheep’s welfare, preventing overheating and various health issues.
For other animals, different collection methods are employed. Cashmere is primarily harvested by hand-combing the goat’s undercoat during their natural shedding period in spring, a method that yields longer, higher-quality fibers. While shearing can also be used for cashmere goats, it often results in more coarser guard hairs mixed with the fine down.
Angora rabbit wool is often collected through plucking, where loose hair is gently removed, or by shearing, though plucking is generally preferred to maximize fiber length.
Llama fiber is typically obtained by shearing every two years, yielding several pounds of fiber per animal.
From Raw Fiber to Finished Product
After harvesting, raw wool undergoes several processing stages to transform it into a usable textile material.
The first step is cleaning, known as scouring, which removes contaminants like grease (lanolin), dirt, dust, and vegetable matter. Scouring typically involves washing the wool in a series of heated water baths with detergents, followed by rinsing and drying.
Once clean and dry, the wool fibers are prepared for spinning. This preparation often includes carding, a process that disentangles the fibers and aligns them in a consistent direction. Carding creates a continuous web or “sliver” of fibers ready for the next stage.
The aligned fibers are then spun into yarn, a process that involves twisting and drawing them together to create a continuous strand.
Finally, the yarn can be dyed to achieve desired colors, typically by immersing it in dye baths with specific temperatures and chemical agents to ensure the color penetrates and adheres to the fibers.