Persimmon trees are increasingly popular additions to home orchards due to their attractive foliage, unique fruit, and reliable hardiness across a range of climates. They offer visual appeal throughout the seasons, culminating in sweet fruit that often persists on the branches after the leaves have fallen. Successfully growing a persimmon begins with acquiring a healthy specimen well-suited to the local environment. Finding the right tree requires understanding the available sources and the differences between common varieties.
Sources for Purchasing Trees
The widest selection of persimmon cultivars is typically found through specialized online and mail-order nurseries. These dedicated sources often carry specific, sometimes rare, Diospyros species and can provide trees grafted onto tailored rootstocks for improved soil adaptation or disease resistance. Since these nurseries often ship during the dormant season, this method is useful for securing the exact variety desired, even if it is not commonly grown locally.
Local, independent garden centers are also an excellent purchasing option, generally offering stock proven successful in the immediate region. Buying locally allows for a physical inspection of the tree’s health, ensuring it has a strong trunk and a robust root system. These centers usually carry the most reliable varieties for the local climate zone, simplifying the selection process.
Large home improvement or box stores may offer persimmon trees at a lower cost, but the selection is typically limited to the most common varieties. Regardless of the source, it is recommended to seek out stock that is certified disease-free by a regulatory body. This certification provides assurance that the tree has been inspected and meets health standards, reducing the risk of introducing pests or pathogens.
Choosing the Right Variety
The selection of a persimmon tree primarily centers on two main species: the American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) and the Asian persimmon (Diospyros kaki). American varieties are more cold-tolerant and smaller, suitable for growers in colder regions, often surviving temperatures down to USDA Zone 4. Asian varieties, which include most commercial cultivars, prefer warmer climates and typically thrive in Zone 7 and above.
Asian persimmon fruit is broadly categorized as either astringent or non-astringent. Astringent cultivars, such as ‘Hachiya,’ contain high levels of tannins, requiring the fruit to be fully ripened and softened before consumption. Eating these fruits before they reach a jelly-like consistency results in an unpleasant, mouth-drying sensation.
Non-astringent cultivars, like the popular ‘Fuyu,’ can be eaten when still firm and crisp. These fruits are low in soluble tannins even when immature, allowing them to be consumed while retaining an apple-like texture. Choosing the correct variety involves matching the tree’s required chill hours—the duration of cold needed for proper bud break—and its hardiness zone to the specific planting site.
Understanding Tree Formats and Timing
Persimmon trees are generally available in two primary formats, starting with the economical bare root option. Bare root trees are harvested while dormant, with soil washed away, and must be planted immediately upon receipt. This format is primarily available in late winter or early spring, coinciding with the tree’s natural period of rest.
The alternative is a container-grown tree, which is actively growing in soil within a pot and is typically more expensive due to ongoing nursery care. Containerized stock offers flexibility and can be planted successfully during most of the growing season, though periods of extreme summer heat should be avoided to prevent transplant shock.
Planting bare root stock in the early spring is advantageous because the tree focuses initial energy on root establishment in cool, moist soil. Container trees allow the grower to purchase and plant outside of this narrow spring window, often making them the more convenient choice.
Immediate Planting and Care
The immediate transition after purchase requires careful handling of the persimmon’s root system to ensure successful establishment. Bare root stock should have its roots soaked in water for a few hours before planting and must be prevented from drying out. The planting hole should be dug two to three times wider than the root ball to allow for root expansion into the loosened soil.
Proper planting depth ensures the root flare, where the trunk broadens, sits level with the surrounding soil surface. The graft union, which appears as a swollen area on the lower trunk, must remain several inches above the final soil line. Leaving the union exposed prevents the scion wood from developing its own roots and bypassing the rootstock benefits. Once the soil is gently backfilled and lightly tamped, a thorough initial watering is necessary to eliminate air pockets.