An orchid’s blooming period requires a significant energy expenditure, temporarily elevating its hydration needs to maintain vibrant flowers. Getting the watering regimen correct during this phase is paramount to ensuring the longevity of the display and the overall health of the orchid. Understanding the plant’s cues helps avoid common mistakes and supports the orchid through its most demanding cycle.
Reading the Signs: Determining When to Water
Orchids, such as the common Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), provide clear visual indicators of their hydration status, eliminating the need for a calendar schedule. The most reliable sign is the color of the aerial roots, often visible through the clear plastic pot. When the specialized outer layer of the roots, called the velamen, is fully hydrated, the roots appear plump and vibrant green.
As the plant uses water, the roots change from green to silvery-white or pale gray, signaling that the velamen has dried out and it is time to water. You can also lift the pot; a saturated pot is noticeably heavier than a dry one. Alternatively, test the medium by inserting a wooden skewer or your finger about an inch deep; if the bark or moss feels completely dry, the orchid needs watering. Due to the increased metabolism required to support flowers, the plant may dry out slightly faster, requiring more frequent checks.
Adjusting Technique and Volume for Flowering Orchids
Once the signs indicate it is time to water, the delivery method is important. The most effective technique is to thoroughly soak the plant in room-temperature water for 10 to 20 minutes, allowing the potting medium to fully absorb moisture. Alternatively, flush the pot continuously under a tap for several minutes, ensuring the water runs completely through the drainage holes. This flushing action also prevents the buildup of mineral salts from tap water or fertilizer.
Never let an orchid sit in standing water after soaking, as this causes root suffocation. Allow the plant to drain completely before returning it to its container to ensure the roots have access to air. During watering, avoid splashing water onto the flowers or allowing it to pool in the central cup of the leaves, known as the crown. Water sitting in the crown can lead to crown rot, a fungal infection that causes rapid plant failure. If water collects in the crown, immediately blot it out using a paper towel.
Consequences of Watering Mistakes During Bloom
Watering mistakes during the flowering phase compromise the current display and the plant’s future health. When the orchid is under-watered, it lacks the turgor pressure needed for new growth, leading to immediate flower and bud failure. This lack of hydration results in “bud blast,” where unopened buds dry up and drop off prematurely, or “flower drop,” where existing blooms quickly shrivel and fall.
The more serious issue is overwatering, which occurs when watering before the potting medium has fully dried out. Consistent saturation deprives the roots of oxygen, leading to root rot, where healthy, firm roots turn brown, black, and mushy. A plant with rotted roots cannot absorb water efficiently, and ironically, it shows symptoms of dehydration, such as yellowing or limp, wrinkled leaves. This root damage can ultimately lead to the collapse of the plant.
The Transition to Post-Bloom Care
When the last flower drops, the orchid enters a recovery phase to replenish the energy reserves spent on the display. Since the plant is no longer supporting the high metabolic demands of the bloom, its overall water consumption naturally decreases. Continue watering only when the roots turn silvery-gray, but the frequency of checks can often be slightly reduced compared to the blooming period.
Attention then shifts to managing the spent flower spike (the stem that held the blooms). If the spike begins to turn yellow or brown, cut it back close to the base using a sterilized tool. This allows the plant to redirect energy entirely to new leaf and root growth. If the spike remains green and firm, especially on a Phalaenopsis, you may leave it, as it might produce a secondary bloom from one of the nodes. Consistent post-bloom care fuels the plant’s ability to initiate a new flower spike for the next season.