The strawberry, a highly favored garden crop, relies heavily on consistent moisture for successful production. However, the plant’s water needs are not static; they fluctuate dramatically throughout the annual cycle. Understanding when to adjust, reduce, and eventually cease irrigation is necessary for a healthy harvest and robust perennial growth. The timing for reducing or stopping supplemental water follows the plant’s biological shift from fruit production to vegetative growth and finally to winter dormancy.
Watering Needs During Active Growth and Fruiting
During the active growth phase, from flowering through peak harvest, strawberry plants require a significant and consistent supply of water. This is due to their shallow root system, which typically extends only into the top three to six inches of soil. If the topsoil dries out, the plant quickly experiences stress.
Strawberry plants generally need the equivalent of one to one and a half inches of water per week, combining rainfall and supplemental irrigation. This moisture is necessary for the swelling of developing fruit and encouraging a healthy root structure. In hot, dry weather, increase the volume up to two and a half inches weekly to prevent small fruit and wilting.
Recognizing the End of the Primary Harvest
The first major change in watering occurs immediately after the primary crop is picked. For June-bearing varieties, this is when the main flush of harvesting drastically slows down, typically marking the end of their three-week fruiting window. The plant shifts its energy from fruiting to building up its crown and sending out runners.
Once fruiting concludes, the immediate need for high-volume moisture drops significantly. Continuing a heavy watering schedule promotes crown rot and fungal diseases while discouraging the plant from establishing deep roots. Reduce the frequency of watering, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out completely between applications.
This post-harvest reduction is a necessary step in “renovation,” encouraging strong crowns for the next season’s fruit production. Keep the soil moist enough to support vegetative growth and runner establishment without creating waterlogged conditions. The plant needs this period of moderate moisture to store the energy required to survive the winter and initiate flower buds for the next spring.
Preparing Plants for Winter Dormancy
The final cessation of regular watering coincides with the onset of true winter dormancy in late fall. This timing is determined by temperature, occurring after the plant experiences several consecutive nights near or below 20°F (-6°C). These low temperatures signal the plant to harden off, slowing its metabolic functions to a crawl.
Stop all but minimal watering at this point to prevent damage during the winter months. Excess moisture in the soil is a major risk factor, as repeated freezing and thawing cycles can cause soil heaving, pushing shallow crowns out of the ground. Wet soil also increases the risk of crown rot once plants are covered with winter mulch.
The soil should be relatively dry when entering the deep freeze to minimize ice formation around the crown. Once the ground is frozen and a protective layer of mulch is applied, natural winter precipitation is usually sufficient. Only during an unusually warm and dry winter might a single, light application be needed to prevent crowns from drying out.
Adjusting Watering for Container Versus In-Ground Plants
While the biological triggers for reducing water remain the same, the application method differs significantly between container and in-ground plants. Container-grown strawberries are far more vulnerable to rapid moisture loss, especially during the heat of the summer. The limited soil volume requires frequent, smaller applications to keep the root zone consistently moist.
In-ground strawberry beds retain moisture longer, benefiting from the insulating properties of the surrounding soil mass. This greater stability means in-ground plants can tolerate a longer period between waterings during the post-harvest phase. Once dormant and mulched, in-ground plants rarely require supplemental winter water.
Container plants face a higher risk of root damage because their roots are exposed to the ambient cold. Once moved to a sheltered location for winter, such as a cold frame or unheated garage, stop active watering almost entirely. Periodically check the soil to ensure it has not become bone-dry, applying only a minimal amount of water to sustain the dormant roots without promoting rot.