The Amaryllis plant (Hippeastrum) is a tropical bulb native to the warm regions of Central and South America. Unlike temperate bulbs, Amaryllis requires a simulated period of rest to store energy and initiate reblooming, mimicking its natural dry season. This mandatory resting phase, typically lasting several weeks, is necessary for the large, striking flowers to return the following season. To successfully navigate this process, the grower must pay close attention to the plant’s visual signals rather than relying on a fixed calendar date.
Reading the Plant’s Dormancy Signals
The decision to stop watering depends entirely on the plant’s foliage, which signals when the bulb is ready for rest. After the blooms fade and the flower stalk is removed, the green leaves must be allowed to grow, often through spring and summer. During this active phase, the leaves conduct photosynthesis, creating and storing the energy reserves the bulb needs for the next flowering cycle. This energy-building period should last at least 8 to 10 weeks post-bloom.
Watering should continue regularly throughout this time, treating the Amaryllis like a typical houseplant. The correct time to begin water cessation is when the leaves naturally start to yellow and fade, usually in late summer or early fall. This yellowing indicates the plant is actively withdrawing nutrients and moisture back into the bulb. Continuing to water past this point interferes with the bulb’s natural reabsorption process.
The foliage must be allowed to die back naturally; prematurely cutting green leaves starves the bulb of stored energy. Once the leaves have visibly turned yellow and brown, the plant signals its readiness to enter dormancy. This visual cue is the reliable indicator that the bulb has completed energy sequestration and is prepared for inactivity.
Practical Steps for Water Cessation
Once the leaves begin to yellow, water cessation should be a gradual transition over a two- to three-week period, not abrupt. This slow reduction in moisture gently encourages the bulb into a dry resting state. During this time, fertilizer application must also be completely stopped, as the plant is no longer in an active growth phase.
The potted plant should be moved during this transition to a cooler, drier environment. Placing the container in a spot that receives less light can help accelerate the drying process. After the foliage has completely turned brown, dry, and brittle, it can be cut back. The remaining dried leaves should be trimmed to about one to two inches above the neck of the bulb, leaving a short stub.
The bulb, still in its pot, is now ready for storage. If the bulb was grown outdoors, it must be brought inside before the first frost, as Hippeastrum is not frost-tolerant. The soil should be allowed to dry out completely before moving the potted bulb to its final resting location.
Preparing the Bulb for Storage
After the bulb is dried and the foliage is trimmed, it needs an environment that simulates the dry season to complete dormancy. The potted bulb should be placed in a cool, dark, and dry location, such as a basement, unheated closet, or garage. The optimal temperature range is consistently between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius).
During the dormancy period, which typically lasts 8 to 12 weeks, the bulb requires no water or fertilizer. This cool, dry rest triggers the physiological changes necessary for flower formation. Check the bulb periodically for signs of mold, rot, or shriveling due to dehydration.
Once dormancy is complete, the bulb can be brought back into a warm, bright location to restart the watering cycle and initiate new growth. The bulb will need to be repotted or have its surface soil refreshed. Renewing the watering and providing warmth signals the end of the rest phase and encourages the new flower stalk to emerge.