The crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a popular ornamental tree throughout the Southern United States, valued for its prolonged summer flowering and attractive peeling bark. In Georgia, these deciduous trees thrive due to their vibrant, long-lasting blooms. Since crepe myrtles bloom on new growth, annual maintenance is necessary to encourage a robust display of flowers and maintain a graceful structure. Correct timing and technique are essential for a healthy, floriferous specimen.
Optimal Timing for Pruning in Georgia
Pruning a crepe myrtle should be timed to coincide with the tree’s deep dormancy, which occurs during the late winter and very early spring in Georgia. The ideal window falls between late February and early March, just before the buds begin to swell and show signs of new growth. Performing the cuts when the tree is leafless allows the gardener to clearly view the branch structure and make informed decisions about which limbs to remove.
Pruning too early in the winter, such as in December or January, carries the risk of stimulating premature growth if a warm spell occurs. This tender new growth is highly susceptible to damage or death if a late hard frost strikes, which can stress the tree. Waiting too long, until late spring when the tree has already pushed out new shoots, is also detrimental because the plant flowers on this season’s wood. Pruning after new growth has begun will remove the potential flower buds, significantly reducing or delaying the summer bloom.
It is advised to avoid pruning in the fall after the leaves have dropped. Fall cuts can stimulate the tree to produce vulnerable new shoots that lack the time to harden off before freezing temperatures. Waiting until the transition from winter to spring minimizes the period pruning wounds are exposed before the tree’s active growth cycle begins, facilitating quicker healing.
Distinguishing Proper Pruning from Crepe Murder
The term “Crepe Murder” describes the severe, incorrect practice of aggressively topping the main branches of the tree, cutting them back to thick, unsightly stubs. This drastic technique is often mistakenly applied in an attempt to control the tree’s height or encourage more blooms, but it is detrimental to the plant’s health and appearance. When a crepe myrtle is topped, the tree responds by producing a flush of numerous, weak, and spindly shoots, often referred to as epicormic growth, directly below the cut.
These new branches, which bear the flowers, are weakly attached to the main limb and are often too thin to support the weight of the blooms, causing them to droop or break, especially after rain. Repeated topping over time results in the formation of permanent, knobby lumps at the site of the cuts, which ruins the tree’s natural, graceful form and its attractive exfoliating bark. The large open wounds left by severe topping increase the tree’s susceptibility to insect infestation and various diseases.
In contrast, proper pruning is a selective process that respects the natural vase-like shape of the crepe myrtle. The goal is to thin the canopy, which improves air circulation and allows light to penetrate the inner branches. A guideline for healthy pruning is to remove no more than one-third of the total growth in a single season. This selective approach ensures the remaining branches are strong enough to support the summer flowers.
Maintenance Cuts for Structure and Health
Effective pruning focuses on removing specific types of growth to promote structural integrity and overall vigor. The first action is the removal of suckers, which are fast-growing shoots emerging from the base of the trunk or root system. Suckers divert energy and impede air movement, so they should be cut flush with the ground or trunk as soon as they appear.
Attention should then turn to the upper canopy, where crossing or rubbing branches must be eliminated. Branches that chafe create open wounds on the bark, providing entry points for pests and disease. Thinning out the small, twiggy growth in the canopy’s interior is also necessary to increase light exposure and air flow, which helps prevent fungal issues like powdery mildew.
When a reduction in height or width is desired, the correct technique involves a reduction cut. This means cutting a branch back to a lateral branch or a healthy, outward-facing bud. This method avoids creating the thick, non-healing stubs characteristic of topping, instead directing the tree’s energy into a new, established growth point. Tools used for these cuts, such as hand pruners or loppers, should always be sharp and clean to ensure smooth cuts that heal quickly.