Successfully establishing a strawberry patch in Wisconsin requires careful attention to the state’s distinct climate, which includes a short growing season and harsh winters. Understanding the specific timing and horticultural practices adapted for this northern region is the foundation for a productive strawberry bed. This guide provides a step-by-step approach focused on planting and first-year care tailored to the challenges faced by gardeners throughout Wisconsin’s various USDA hardiness zones.
Optimal Planting Times for Wisconsin
The most successful time to plant bare-root strawberry plants in Wisconsin is early spring, generally late March through early May. Planting should occur as soon as the soil is workable—meaning it is no longer frozen or saturated and crumbles easily when squeezed. Since Wisconsin spans USDA hardiness zones 3 through 5, gardeners in northern zones will naturally plant later than those in the south.
Planting early allows the plants a long period to establish a robust root system before summer heat arrives. If planting is delayed past mid-May, the plants will have an inferior yield during their second year, as energy is diverted to survival rather than growth. For established beds, renovation and transplanting of runners are typically performed in late summer or early fall after the main harvest, allowing new plants to root before winter dormancy.
Choosing Varieties and Preparing the Soil
Variety Selection
Selecting the appropriate strawberry type is a primary decision for success in Wisconsin’s cold climate. The three main types are June-bearing, Ever-bearing, and Day-neutral varieties. June-bearing cultivars are the most commonly grown and reliable choice for this region, producing one large crop in late spring or early summer. They are generally the most cold-hardy, with varieties like ‘Honeoye,’ ‘Jewel,’ and ‘Sparkle’ often recommended for their exceptional winter tolerance. Everbearing and Day-neutral types are less vigorous and less reliably winter-hardy in the coldest zones. For maximum yield and survival, choosing varieties specifically designated as cold-hardy is the most dependable strategy.
Soil Preparation
Since strawberries are shallow-rooted perennial plants, preparing the top six to twelve inches of soil is essential for their establishment. The soil must offer excellent drainage, as strawberries quickly succumb to root rot in waterlogged conditions. They also thrive in a slightly acidic environment, with an ideal pH range between 5.5 and 6.5.
Gardeners should conduct a soil test a year before planting to determine the existing pH and nutrient levels. If the soil is too alkaline, amendments like elemental sulfur can be incorporated to lower the pH. Tilling the site and mixing in organic material, such as peat moss or well-rotted compost, will improve drainage and ensure the best possible start for the new plants.
Essential Planting Techniques
Bare-root plants should be soaked in water for up to an hour before planting to rehydrate the roots. Dig a hole wide enough to allow the roots to spread naturally without bending upwards. The most critical aspect of planting is setting the crown—the small, compressed stem where the leaves and roots meet—at the correct depth.
The crown must be positioned exactly at the soil surface. If buried, it will likely rot, and if set too high, the roots will dry out quickly. After placing the plant, gently backfill the hole, firming the soil to eliminate air pockets. Immediately follow planting with a deep watering to settle the soil and ensure good root-to-soil contact.
Spacing varies depending on the variety and the growing system chosen. June-bearing varieties are typically grown in a matted row system, set 18 to 24 inches apart within rows spaced three to four feet apart. Day-neutral and Ever-bearing varieties often use the hill system, spaced 8 to 12 inches apart, where runners are continually removed.
First-Year Care and Winterizing
The first year after planting is dedicated to developing strong, healthy root systems and crowns rather than producing fruit. For June-bearing plants, all flower blossoms must be removed as soon as they appear; this redirects the plant’s energy into vegetative growth and runner production. Day-neutral and Ever-bearing types should also have blossoms removed for the first six to eight weeks after planting to prevent stunting and encourage better yields later in the season.
Consistent watering is necessary throughout the summer, providing about one inch of water per week, especially during dry spells, since strawberries are shallow-rooted. Weed control is also important, as strawberries compete poorly with weeds for moisture and nutrients.
The final step for long-term success in Wisconsin is winterizing the patch for protection against severe cold and the freeze-thaw cycles that cause soil heaving. A layer of clean, weed-free straw or pine needles, about four to six inches deep, should be applied over the plants for insulation. The timing for this application is specific and should occur after the ground has frozen solid, usually in late November or early December, but before temperatures consistently fall below 20°F. Covering the plants too early can cause them to rot or not properly enter dormancy.