Growing your own potatoes is a popular and rewarding activity for home gardeners across Connecticut. The state’s climate, with cool spring weather, is well-suited for cultivating this cool-season crop. Success relies on timing and proper care specific to the New England environment. This guide offers Connecticut gardeners the information needed to plant, nurture, and harvest a plentiful crop of homegrown potatoes.
Determining the Ideal Planting Time
The most important factor for planting potatoes in Connecticut is not a calendar date but the condition of the soil. Potatoes are a cool-season vegetable that can tolerate light frosts, which means planting can occur a few weeks before the average last spring frost date. This date varies significantly across Connecticut, ranging from the middle to late April along the coast and in southern areas to mid-May in the higher elevations and inland regions.
The indicator of readiness is the soil temperature, which should consistently reach at least 45°F at a four-inch depth. Planting in soil that is too cold, wet, or waterlogged risks the seed pieces rot before they can sprout. Monitoring the soil temperature ensures the seed potatoes begin growth immediately, preventing the issues associated with planting too early. Many Connecticut gardeners aim for an early to mid-April planting for the main crop, while those in northern or higher elevation towns may wait until late April or early May.
Seed Preparation and Soil Requirements
Before planting, select certified seed potatoes, which are disease-free and untreated. To maximize the yield, cut larger potatoes into blocky pieces, each weighing about one to two ounces and containing at least one or two “eyes” or buds. Allow these cut pieces to cure for one to two days in a well-ventilated, moderate temperature area. This curing process forms a protective layer over the cut surface, which reduces the chance of rot once the pieces are placed into the cool, moist spring soil.
Potatoes thrive in loose, fertile, and well-draining soil, as heavy or compacted soil can lead to misshapen tubers. The ideal soil pH is slightly acidic, ranging between 5.5 and 6.5. A pH above this range increases the risk of the common potato disease known as scab. Plant the cured seed pieces about three to four inches deep and space them approximately twelve inches apart within the row, with rows separated by about two to three feet.
Essential Care During the Growing Season
Once the potato plants emerge and reach six to eight inches in height, “hilling” must begin. Hilling involves mounding soil or compost around the stems and lower foliage of the plant. This practice is essential because potato tubers develop along the underground stems, and keeping them covered prevents light exposure. Tubers exposed to sunlight turn green and produce a slightly toxic compound called solanine, making them inedible.
Continue to hill the plants every few weeks throughout the early growing season, adding soil until a mound approximately twelve inches high is built around the plant base. Consistent and deep watering is required, especially during the period when the tubers are actively forming underground. The plants require about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation, to maintain even soil moisture. Gardeners should also be vigilant for the Colorado potato beetle, a prevalent pest whose larvae can rapidly defoliate plants; hand-picking beetles or applying an organic control like neem oil can manage their population.
When and How to Harvest
The timing of harvest depends on the desired type of potato: “new potatoes” or “storage potatoes.” New potatoes are small, tender, and best for immediate consumption. They can be gently dug about two weeks after the plants flower, usually sixty to seventy-five days after planting. Carefully probe the soil near the plant base to locate and remove these small tubers without disturbing the main plant.
For storage potatoes, which are larger and have a tougher skin suitable for long-term keeping, wait until the plant foliage yellows and completely dies back. This natural die-off typically occurs in late summer or early fall. This period allows the potato skins to “set,” which is necessary for proper storage. Use a garden fork, inserting it well away from the plant’s center to avoid puncturing the potatoes, and gently lift the tubers from the soil. After digging, allow the potatoes to dry on the soil surface for a few hours before moving them to a dark, cool area at 55 to 60°F for a two-week curing period to heal minor injuries.