Cyclamen are tuberous perennials known for their distinctive upswept petals and attractive, often marbled, heart-shaped foliage. Many species naturally bloom from autumn through early spring, bringing color to the colder months. The ideal time to plant cyclamen depends entirely on whether you are using a hardy, dormant tuber destined for the garden or a tender, actively growing potted plant meant for indoor display.
Planting Dormant Hardy Tubers
Hardy cyclamen species, such as Cyclamen hederifolium (fall-blooming) and Cyclamen coum (winter/spring-blooming), are typically planted as dormant tubers to naturalize in the landscape. The most effective time to plant these tubers is in late summer or early autumn, generally between August and November. This timing allows the tubers to establish a robust root system before the onset of winter and their natural growing season begins.
Planting requires shallow placement, which is a departure from many other common garden bulbs. The tuber should be set in the soil so that its top is just barely exposed or covered by no more than 1 to 2 inches (3 to 5 centimeters) of soil. The slightly concave or domed side must face upward, as this is where the growth buds are located.
When planting multiple tubers, space them about 6 to 10 inches apart to allow room for them to mature and spread naturally. Hardy cyclamen tubers can be incredibly long-lived, potentially surviving for generations once established. Planting them during their active root growth period in the autumn gives them the best chance for establishment.
Care for Potted Florist Cyclamen
The cyclamen most commonly purchased are the tender florist’s cyclamen, which are hybrids of Cyclamen persicum. These plants are bought in full bloom, usually between October and January, and require immediate placement into a decorative container. They are not intended for planting outdoors in most climates.
When potting, choose a container with excellent drainage that is only slightly larger than the nursery pot. The crown, where the leaves and flowers emerge, must remain slightly above the soil line to prevent water from collecting and causing the tuber to rot. Water the plant by soaking it from the bottom, allowing it to draw up moisture through the drainage holes. Discard any excess water after about 30 minutes. This method prevents water from touching the exposed tuber or the delicate leaf stems, which is a frequent cause of fungal issues.
To encourage continuous blooming, spent flowers and yellowing leaves should be removed promptly, a process called deadheading. The entire stem should be removed by gently twisting it off at its base near the tuber. Removing the whole stalk prevents the remaining stub from decaying and introducing rot.
Optimal Site and Soil Conditions
Regardless of whether the cyclamen is a hardy garden variety or a potted florist type, the environmental conditions must prioritize coolness and excellent drainage. Cyclamen tubers are highly susceptible to rot if the soil remains waterlogged. For garden planting, the soil should be loose, humus-rich, and amended with organic matter to ensure swift drainage.
Both indoor and outdoor cyclamen thrive in partial or dappled shade, avoiding direct, intense sunlight which can scorch the leaves and induce premature dormancy. For indoor plants, a cool, brightly lit area away from heat sources like radiators or drafts is ideal. Florist cyclamen prefer cooler temperatures, typically between 50°F and 65°F, as warm conditions above this range signal the plant to enter its summer rest period.
Outdoor hardy cyclamen are best situated beneath deciduous trees or shrubs. This provides shade during the summer dormancy and allows winter light to filter through for their active growth period. The soil should be well-draining in all seasons, as excessive summer moisture can be particularly damaging to the dormant tuber. Increasing air humidity around indoor plants, such as by placing the pot on a pebble tray with water, is beneficial.