Shallots, a sophisticated relative of the common onion, are prized by chefs and home cooks for their delicate, mild flavor. These multiplier bulbs grow in clusters from a single planted clove, offering a generous harvest for the effort. To capture their maximum flavor profile and ensure they remain dormant for months, the timing of the harvest is paramount. This process starts with reading the subtle signs the plant provides.
Reading the Visual Cues for Harvest
The shallot plant signals its maturity through a definitive change in its foliage. Harvest time is approaching when the green tops begin to yellow, wither, and fall over, typically when 50% to 75% of the leaves have turned brown or collapsed. This indicates the plant is redirecting energy and nutrients from the leaves down into the developing bulbs. During this late stage, the neck—the connection point between the leaves and the bulb—will soften and bend. A squishy neck confirms that the flow of moisture has ceased, which is necessary for the bulb to seal itself for preservation. To encourage this process and prevent rot, stop all watering one to two weeks before the anticipated harvest to promote proper bulb maturation.
The Mechanics of Lifting Shallots
Once the foliage has collapsed and the necks feel soft, the bulbs are ready to be lifted from the soil. Perform this task on a dry, sunny day to aid in the initial surface drying of the bulbs. Avoid pulling the plants by their stems, as this forceful action can damage the delicate neck tissue. Instead, use a garden fork or small trowel to gently loosen the soil several inches away from the cluster, then carefully lift the entire clump, ensuring the root plate remains intact. Gently brush away large clumps of soil; washing the shallots is not recommended, as introducing moisture compromises the curing process and invites fungal issues.
Curing and Drying Post-Harvest
Curing is a mandatory post-harvest process that hardens the outer wrapper and seals the neck, which is the primary entry point for moisture and pathogens. This drying phase prepares the shallots for months of dormancy. The best location for curing is a warm, dry area with excellent air circulation, such as a covered porch, shed, or garage. Spread the shallots in a single layer on a screen or rack, keeping them out of direct sunlight. Curing typically takes two to four weeks; during this time, leave the stems and roots attached to help draw out excess moisture. Once the necks and outer skins are completely dry and papery, trim the stems, leaving a small stub of one to two inches above the bulb.
Methods for Long-Term Storage
After the curing process is complete, the shallots are ready for their final long-term storage location. The goal is to maintain a cool, dry, and dark environment to keep the bulbs dormant and prevent premature sprouting or rooting. The ideal storage temperature range is 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (0 to 4 degrees Celsius). Shallots require continuous air circulation to prevent the buildup of moisture that leads to mold or rot. Suitable containers include mesh bags, open-weave baskets, or braided strings of shallots hung from a rafter; avoid using plastic bags or closed containers, which trap humidity and accelerate spoilage. Regularly check the stored bulbs and remove any that show signs of softening or disease.