Taro, known scientifically as Colocasia esculenta, is a tropical root crop cultivated primarily for its starchy underground stem, called a corm, but also for its edible leaves. It is a staple food in many parts of the world, often called dasheen or eddo. The taro corm provides a dense source of carbohydrates and requires careful timing for harvest to achieve the best flavor, texture, and starch content. Harvesting relies on clear visual signals from the plant itself.
Visual Signs the Taro is Ready
The growing period for taro typically requires seven to twelve months after planting, depending on the variety and local climate. The plant must complete its vegetative growth phase before it begins storing starch in the corm. This shift in energy allocation signals the appropriate time for harvest.
The most reliable indicator that the taro corm is mature is the onset of senescence, the natural dying back of the foliage. This is confirmed by the large, outer leaves beginning to yellow, wither, and droop. Yellowing signifies that the plant has finished collecting sunlight and is mobilizing stored nutrients downward into the underground corm.
Harvesting while the leaves are still fully green means the corm has not fully matured and will possess lower starch content and less developed flavor. Conversely, delaying the harvest too long risks exposure to frost, which can damage the corms, especially in non-tropical zones. A general target for harvest is when approximately half of the leaves have turned yellow or died down.
The Process of Digging and Separating the Corms
Preparation for harvest begins a couple of weeks beforehand by reducing or stopping irrigation entirely, which helps firm up the soil and makes the corms easier to handle. Use a garden fork or shovel, inserting the tool about a foot away from the main stem. This careful technique avoids piercing the corms, which can lead to rapid decay in storage.
The goal is to gently loosen the soil and lift the entire plant clump in one piece. Once the clump is out of the ground, shake or brush off excess soil to expose the main corm and the surrounding smaller cormels (daughter corms). These cormels are attached to the central corm and must be carefully separated by snapping or cutting them away.
The main leaf stem, or petiole, should be trimmed back to about an inch above the corm, and the fine roots should also be removed. This trimming focuses the corm’s energy on maintaining its integrity rather than supporting residual plant matter. The separated corms and cormels are then ready for immediate post-harvest conditioning.
Preparing Taro for Storage
After the corms have been dug and trimmed, the next step is curing, which heals small injuries sustained during harvest. Curing involves allowing the corms to dry slightly for a few days in a shaded, well-ventilated location. This encourages the formation of a protective layer over minor nicks, preventing the entry of pathogens that cause rot during storage.
For long-term storage, taro requires specific environmental conditions to maintain quality and prevent shriveling. The ideal environment is a cool, dark space with temperatures maintained between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 degrees Celsius). High humidity, ranging from 80% to 95% relative humidity, is also necessary to prevent excessive moisture loss.
Taro should never be refrigerated whole, as exposure to cold temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius) can cause chilling injury, negatively affecting texture and taste. If refrigeration is necessary, the taro should first be peeled, cut, and blanched or fully cooked before being sealed in an airtight container. If optimal storage conditions are unavailable, corms can sometimes be left in the ground until needed, provided there is no risk of the soil freezing.