Shallots are a prized member of the Allium family, often referred to as a multiplier onion because a single planted bulb produces a cluster of several new bulbs. For spring planting, the goal is to grow the cluster to maturity and preserve them for long-term use. This process, which typically spans 100 to 120 days, involves recognizing harvest signals, carefully lifting the bulbs, and conducting a necessary post-harvest treatment.
Recognizing the Signs of Maturity
The calendar date only offers a general guideline, so the most reliable sign that spring-planted shallots are ready for harvest is the condition of the foliage. Shallots are finished growing their bulbs when the energy stored in the green leaves is redirected downward. The first visual indicator is the leaves starting to fade from a vibrant green to a pale yellow, often beginning near the base of the plant.
This yellowing progresses to browning, which is soon followed by the foliage flopping over onto the soil surface. This process signals that the plant is completing the formation of the outer layers of the bulb. Once about half to two-thirds of the greens have turned color and wilted, the shallots are approaching peak readiness.
A secondary sign is the softening and drying of the neck, which is the point where the foliage meets the bulb cluster. A firm neck indicates that the plant is still actively growing and transferring moisture, but a dry, collapsing neck means the plant is sealing itself off. To encourage this drying process and prepare the bulbs for storage, stop watering the shallots once the tops begin to yellow and fall over. This reduction in moisture helps the outer skin of the shallot cluster to cure in the ground, improving its potential for long-term preservation.
The Physical Harvest Process
Timing the lifting of the bulbs is important; it should happen after the tops have mostly fallen but before the foliage has completely withered. Harvesting on a dry, sunny day is best, as the absence of excess moisture is necessary for the initial stage of preservation and prevents rot. The shallot clusters should not be pulled directly out of the ground by their greens, as this can damage the neck and compromise the bulb’s structure.
The proper technique involves using a garden fork or trowel to gently loosen the soil in a wide circle around the cluster. Shallots tend to grow near the soil surface, so care must be taken to avoid puncturing or slicing the developing bulbs. Once the soil is loose, the entire cluster can be carefully lifted from the bed by grasping the base of the leaves and gently wiggling it free.
After lifting, the bulbs should be handled with care to prevent bruising, which can create entry points for pathogens and reduce storage life. Excess clumps of soil should be gently brushed off the shallots, but the bulbs must never be washed with water. The roots and the foliage should be left attached to the bulbs, as they play a role in the next step of the preservation process.
Curing for Long-Term Preservation
Curing dries the outer wrappers and the neck of the shallot, essentially sealing the bulb for storage. This reduces the moisture content within the outer layers, which forms a protective, papery barrier against disease and moisture loss. Shallots that are not properly cured will not store well and must be used almost immediately.
The curing process requires a warm, dry, and well-ventilated location that is protected from direct sunlight and rain. Suitable locations include a covered porch, an open shed, or a well-ventilated garage where air can circulate freely around the bulbs. The shallots should be spread out in a single layer on a screen, wire rack, or mesh tray to ensure consistent airflow on all sides.
The typical curing duration ranges from two to four weeks, depending on the humidity and temperature. Shallots are ready for storage when the outer skins become completely dry and papery, and the neck is shriveled and feels brittle to the touch.
Once fully cured, the dried foliage can be trimmed down to about one to two inches above the bulb, and the roots can also be clipped off. Any bulbs that show signs of damage or thick, soft necks should be set aside for immediate use, as they will not store reliably.