Spring planting is often necessary in regions with extremely cold winters or when growing quick-maturing varieties, allowing growers to produce bulbs when traditional fall planting is not feasible. Since the bulb develops entirely underground, determining the precise harvest moment relies on observing the plant’s above-ground foliage. Identifying this narrow window is paramount to ensuring the bulbs are fully sized, properly protected, and ready for long storage.
Visual Signs of Readiness
The most reliable indicator for a successful harvest is the natural dieback of the lower leaves, not a specific date. Each leaf on the stem corresponds to a protective, papery wrapper layer around the developing bulb underground. As the plant matures, the lowest leaves begin to yellow and brown, signaling that the bulb is nearing its full size.
The optimal time to lift the bulbs is when the bottom third to half of the leaves have died back, but the top four to five leaves remain green and upright. This ratio ensures that the bulb has reached its maximum potential size while retaining enough outer wrappers for protection. Harvesting when all leaves are brown indicates the bulb has been in the ground too long, causing wrappers to disintegrate and cloves to separate. This wrapper loss significantly reduces the bulb’s ability to store well and can expose cloves to soil pathogens. Conversely, harvesting when too many leaves are still green means the bulb has not finished sizing up, resulting in a smaller final product.
Managing Scapes and Water Prior to Harvest
Managing Scapes
For hardneck varieties, the appearance of a curly flower stalk, known as a scape, provides a helpful pre-harvest time marker. Scapes should be removed as soon as they begin to curl, typically four to six weeks before the bulb reaches full maturity. Cutting the scape redirects the plant’s energy away from flower production and back into the bulb, maximizing its final size.
Withholding Water
A few weeks before the anticipated harvest date, begin withholding water from the plants. Stop watering the garlic approximately one to two weeks before you plan to dig the bulbs. Allowing the soil to dry out helps initiate the curing process in the ground and prevents the bulbs from absorbing excess moisture. Dry soil conditions minimize the risk of bulb rot and make the soil looser and easier to work with during lifting.
Techniques for Lifting the Bulb
When the foliage signals readiness, the harvest must be performed with care to avoid compromising the bulb’s integrity. Never attempt to pull the plant directly from the ground by gripping the stalk. Pulling can easily snap the stem away from the bulb, destroying the neck seal and dramatically shortening its storage life.
Use a garden fork or a small trowel to gently loosen the soil in a wide circle, a few inches away from the plant’s stalk. Carefully push the fork deep into the soil and use a levering motion to lift the bulb from beneath, minimizing direct contact with the fragile bulb. After lifting, brush off any loose soil, but do not wash the bulbs or attempt to remove outer wrappers. Damage or bruising can create entry points for moisture and pathogens, leading to premature decay.
Curing and Preparing Garlic for Storage
Curing the Bulbs
Curing is a mandatory post-harvest process that prepares the garlic for long-term storage by drying the outer wrappers and shrinking the neck. This step must begin immediately after the bulbs are lifted from the ground. The ideal curing environment is a warm space, generally between 60°F and 80°F, that is dry and offers excellent air circulation.
Hang the whole plants, stalk and roots still attached, in bundles or spread them in a single layer on a wire rack in a covered area, such as a well-ventilated shed or covered porch. The curing process typically requires three to six weeks, depending on humidity and temperature. Curing is complete when the stalk is dry and shriveled, the neck feels constricted, and the outer wrappers are papery and brittle.
Final Preparation and Storage
Once fully cured, the final preparation involves trimming the roots and the stalk. Use sharp shears to cut the roots off close to the base of the bulb and trim the stalk down to about one to two inches above the bulb. These trimmed, cured bulbs should then be stored in a cool, dark location with moderate humidity and good air circulation, where they can last for many months.