Garlic requires a full season of growth, planted in the fall and maturing the following summer. Harvesting at the precise moment of maturity directly impacts the quality, size, and long-term storage potential of the bulbs. Pulling the crop too early yields smaller bulbs with thin, underdeveloped wrappers. Waiting too long causes the bulbs to split apart, compromising the protective layers. For growers in Zone 7, the harvest window typically opens in late June and extends into early July, requiring careful observation of the plant’s natural cues.
Visual Indicators of Harvest Readiness
The plant’s foliage provides the most reliable indicator of bulb maturity. The general rule is to harvest when approximately one-third of the leaves have browned and died back, leaving the upper two-thirds still green and functional. Since each leaf corresponds to a protective, papery wrapper layer, allowing too many leaves to brown reduces the number of protective wrappers, which diminishes the bulb’s storage potential. Growers should aim for a state where at least three to five green leaves remain on the stalk at the time of lifting.
For Hardneck varieties, the curled flower stalk, known as a scape, serves as an earlier indicator. These scapes should be snapped or cut off as soon as they form a full coil or loop. This redirects the plant’s energy from flower production back into bulb development. The optimal harvest time for Hardnecks is usually about three to four weeks after the scapes have been removed. Softneck varieties, which do not produce scapes, rely solely on the leaf-browning ratio for timing.
Regardless of the variety, halt all irrigation and watering efforts approximately one to two weeks before the anticipated harvest date. This intentional drying period helps the bulb wrappers begin the curing process while still in the ground. It also prevents the bulb from absorbing excess moisture, which can lead to rot and mold during storage. Harvesting a test bulb allows for a physical inspection of the bulb size and wrapper integrity before committing to the full harvest.
Proper Techniques for Lifting Garlic
Once the visual cues confirm the garlic is ready, the physical removal of the bulbs must be handled with care to preserve the outer wrappers. The most common mistake is attempting to pull the plants by the stalk. This often results in the stalk breaking off, leaving the bulb embedded, or damaging the bulb’s neck. Damaged or bruised bulbs have a reduced storage life and should be set aside for immediate consumption.
Use a garden fork or a flat-tined spade to gently lever the bulb out of the soil. Insert the tool into the ground at least six inches away from the stalk to avoid piercing the bulb. Apply slow, gentle pressure to the handle to loosen the soil, then carefully lift the entire plant from the earth.
Immediately after lifting, gently brush the excess soil off the bulb and roots. Do not wash the bulbs with water, as introducing moisture compromises the papery wrappers and invites fungal pathogens. Keeping the protective outer layers intact and dry prepares the bulb for the subsequent curing process.
Curing and Storing the Harvest
Curing is a post-harvest step that dries the outer wrappers and necks of the garlic, maximizing shelf stability for long-term storage. This process involves moving the freshly harvested bulbs to a dark, dry location that provides excellent air circulation. The ideal environment for curing maintains a temperature between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with low humidity.
The entire plant, including the stalks and roots, should be left intact during curing. The remaining nutrients and moisture in the foliage are drawn into the bulb during this time. Hanging the bulbs in small bundles or spreading them on wire racks prevents moisture build-up and promotes airflow around the entire surface of the bulb. This curing phase is complete after two to four weeks, though the duration varies based on ambient temperature and humidity levels.
Curing is complete when the outer wrappers feel dry and papery, the neck is constricted, and the roots are brittle. At this point, trim the stalks down to about one inch above the bulb, and cut the roots close to the base. For long-term storage, move the trimmed bulbs to a cooler, darker location, ideally maintained between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit with moderate humidity.