Garlic is a popular crop for home gardeners, and knowing the right time to harvest is important for storage. Harvesting in Ohio typically takes place during the summer months, generally from late June through August. Successful harvesting depends on observing specific visual cues from the plant rather than relying on a calendar date alone.
Visual Cues for Readiness
Monitoring the foliage provides the clearest signal that the underground bulb is fully formed and ready to be lifted. The objective is to harvest when the bulbs have reached maximum size but before the protective outer wrappers begin to disintegrate in the soil. Waiting too long causes the bulb wrappers to split, which significantly reduces the garlic’s storage life and makes it susceptible to diseases.
Hardneck and softneck varieties offer different visual indicators for harvest. For hardneck garlic, look for the lower leaves to turn yellow and brown. A guideline is to harvest when approximately one-third of the leaves have died back, meaning about three lower leaves are brown while the top three to five leaves remain green. Earlier in the season, removing the garlic scape, the curling flower stalk, directs the plant’s energy into bulb enlargement, with harvest generally occurring about four weeks after the scape is cut.
Softneck garlic, which does not produce a scape, is ready when about half of the leaves have started to yellow and dry out. The neck of the softneck plant may also begin to soften or lean over, signaling maturity. In Ohio, hardneck varieties are often ready in early to mid-July, while softneck types may mature slightly later. Always dig up one test bulb when the plant shows signs of readiness to check that the cloves are plump and the wrappers are intact before harvesting the entire crop.
Proper Extraction Techniques
Once the visual cues indicate the garlic is ready, the physical act of removing the bulb must be done carefully to prevent damage. A damaged bulb is a point of entry for pathogens and will not cure properly for long-term storage. Stop watering the plants about a week before the expected harvest date to help the drying process and prevent mold issues.
The bulbs should never be pulled directly by the stem, as this risks breaking the stem or bruising the neck. Instead, use a pitchfork or a garden shovel to gently loosen the soil around the bulb. Position the tool about eight to ten inches away from the stem to avoid puncturing the bulb.
Gently lift the soil to loosen the roots, then carefully pull the entire plant, including the bulb, roots, and stalk, from the ground. Immediately after extraction, gently brush off any large clumps of soil clinging to the bulb. Do not wash the garlic with water, as moisture will interfere with the curing process.
Curing and Preparation for Storage
Curing transitions the fresh bulb into a dry, storable product by allowing the outer wrappers and neck to dry completely. This process forms a protective, papery barrier around the cloves, which maximizes the garlic’s shelf life. Proper curing minimizes the risk of mold and disease while concentrating the flavor of the garlic.
The bulbs, still attached to their stalks, should be placed in a dark, dry space with good ventilation, such as a garage, shed, or barn. Avoid direct sunlight, which can cook the bulbs and cause sunscald. The garlic can be hung in small bundles or laid out in a single layer on racks or screens to ensure adequate air circulation.
Curing typically takes between two and four weeks, depending on the humidity and temperature. The garlic is fully cured when the outer wrappers are papery and crispy, the neck is constricted and dry, and the center stem is firm. Once curing is complete, the final preparation involves trimming the roots close to the bulb and cutting the stalk about an inch above the bulb.