Garlic is a popular crop, and timing the harvest correctly is essential for maximizing both bulb size and long-term storage quality. Harvesting at the precise moment of maturity is necessary for successful curing and preparing the bulb for dormancy. Knowing when to transition from watering and feeding the plant to preparing for harvest shifts the focus from the calendar to the plant’s visual signals.
Identifying the Right Time to Harvest
The most reliable indicator for a ready garlic harvest is the condition of its foliage. As the bulb matures, the plant draws energy from its leaves, causing them to turn yellow and eventually brown starting from the tips. The optimal time to harvest is when the lower one-third of the leaves have turned brown, but the top two-thirds remain green and upright.
Each green leaf remaining represents an intact, protective wrapper layer around the developing bulb. Harvesting too early results in an undersized bulb with thin wrappers. Waiting too long causes the wrappers to deteriorate and the cloves to separate, drastically reducing storage life. Hardneck varieties signal maturity with the emergence of a flower stalk, or scape, which should be removed about a month before harvest to redirect the plant’s energy into bulb growth. Once the scape is removed, the final weeks focus entirely on monitoring the remaining green leaves.
Colorado’s Regional Timing Considerations
While visual cues are the primary determinant, Colorado’s diverse geography means the general harvest window spans from mid-July into early August. Gardeners along the lower-elevation Front Range and Eastern Plains typically see their garlic mature in mid-to-late July. This timing is consistent for fall-planted hardneck varieties.
For high-altitude gardeners in mountain valleys, the shorter growing season can push the harvest window into early August, depending on the microclimate. Warmer summer conditions can accelerate the process, sometimes causing bulbs to mature a week or two earlier than normal. The calendar dates are only a guideline; the plant’s leaf condition must always override a predetermined date.
Techniques for Pulling and Cleaning
One to two weeks before the expected harvest date, cease all irrigation to allow the soil to dry out. This helps the outer wrappers begin to dry and prevents the bulbs from becoming susceptible to rot during harvest. Harvesting should occur when the soil is dry and crumbly, which reduces the chance of bruising the bulb.
Never pull the bulb directly by the stem. The stalk can separate from the bulb, creating an open wound that invites infection and reduces storage potential. Instead, use a garden fork or small spade to gently loosen the soil several inches away from the plant’s base. Carefully lift the entire plant, including the stem and roots, and gently brush off large clumps of dirt, avoiding washing the bulbs. Damaged bulbs should be set aside for immediate use, as they will not store well.
Curing and Preparing Garlic for Storage
Curing is a post-harvest process that dries the neck and outer skin of the bulb, hardening the protective wrappers for long-term storage. The entire plant—bulb, stem, and roots—must be cured in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated location protected from direct sunlight and rain. Hanging the garlic in small bundles or spreading it in a single layer on an elevated screen ensures adequate air circulation.
Curing typically takes three to six weeks, depending on humidity and bulb size. Garlic is fully cured once the outer skins are dry and papery, the neck is constricted, and the roots are stiff and brittle. At this point, the stems can be trimmed to one or two inches above the bulb, and the roots clipped to about a quarter inch. For the longest shelf life, store the trimmed, cured bulbs in a dark, dry space with temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit and moderate humidity.