Bermuda grass is a warm-season turf that thrives in the long, hot summers characteristic of Texas. This aggressive, durable grass is popular for its drought tolerance and rapid recovery from damage. Achieving a dense, vibrant Bermuda lawn relies heavily on precise fertilization tailored to its active growing period. Successful growth requires executing a strategic schedule that matches the turf’s nutritional needs throughout the season.
Establishing the Foundation: Soil Health and Fertilizer Choice
Identifying the specific nutrient needs of the soil is the first step before any fertilizer application. A professional soil test is highly recommended, as it provides a precise analysis of soil pH and existing nutrient levels, particularly phosphorus and potassium. Many Texas soils, especially alkaline clay varieties, may already contain adequate phosphorus, making its addition unnecessary and potentially harmful to water sources.
Bermuda grass demands a high ratio of Nitrogen (N) for its vigorous growth cycle. If a soil test is unavailable, a complete fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 4-1-2 or 3-1-2 is recommended for warm-season grasses. For example, a fertilizer labeled 16-4-8 or 15-5-10 fits this profile.
Choosing fertilizer types involves balancing immediate effect with sustained feeding. Quick-release nitrogen provides a rapid green-up but necessitates more frequent applications to maintain color and density. Slow-release nitrogen provides a steady supply of nutrients over a longer period, often two to three months, reducing the risk of “surge growth” and potential burn. Many high-quality fertilizers combine both types to offer an initial boost and continuous feeding.
The Core Timing Strategy: Spring Green-Up and Summer Feeding
The first fertilizer application must be timed by soil temperature, not the calendar, to ensure the Bermuda grass is actively growing and can absorb nutrients. The grass breaks dormancy and begins to green up when the soil temperature consistently reaches between 65°F and 70°F at a depth of four inches. This usually occurs between early April and early May across most of Texas.
Applying high-nitrogen fertilizer before the soil is warm enough is inefficient because the dormant turf cannot use the nutrients. Instead, the fertilizer may feed emerging spring weeds, giving them a competitive advantage. The initial feeding should happen when the turf is roughly 50% green, using a complete fertilizer to support growth and recovery from winter dormancy.
Once the turf is fully active, the summer months require consistent feeding to sustain high-quality growth. During the peak growing season, from late May through August, a new fertilizer application is needed every four to six weeks for a dense, dark green appearance. This frequent feeding is necessary because Bermuda grass is a heavy feeder that quickly uses up the nitrogen supply.
Summer applications should prioritize nitrogen to fuel the lateral growth of stolons and rhizomes, creating a thick turf. It is recommended not to exceed one pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in a single application to prevent burning the grass blades. Maintaining this consistent schedule prevents the grass from becoming nutrient-stressed during the hottest part of the year.
Late Season Care and Dormancy Preparation
As summer transitions into early fall, the fertilization strategy must shift from promoting top growth toward strengthening the root system for winter. The final nitrogen application should occur in late August or early September, marking the end of the high-growth feeding cycle. The goal is to prepare the turf for dormancy rather than stimulating new, tender leaf growth.
The application in September or early October, often called “winterizer,” focuses on Potassium (K). Potassium enhances cold tolerance, improves water regulation, and strengthens the grass’s cellular structure, which is crucial for surviving winter dormancy. This late-season fertilizer should have low or zero nitrogen content and a higher concentration of potassium, such as a ratio of 0-0-50 or a balanced blend with a high K number.
A firm cut-off date for applying nitrogen is four to six weeks before the average first frost date. Applying nitrogen too late encourages the development of new shoots and leaf tissue that are highly susceptible to cold damage. Providing the potassium boost without high nitrogen allows the grass to safely store carbohydrates in its roots and prepare for the cold-weather period.
Application Errors to Avoid
One common misstep is applying granular fertilizer when the grass blades are wet from dew or irrigation. The granules can stick to the moisture, concentrating the salts and causing chemical burn, which appears as yellow or brown spots. Application should always be done on dry turf to ensure the granules fall directly to the soil surface.
It is necessary to water the lawn immediately after applying granular fertilizer, unless a significant rain is expected. Watering helps move the nitrogen and other nutrients off the leaf blades and into the soil where the roots can access them, preventing the fertilizer from dehydrating and burning the grass. Deep watering is better than a light sprinkling for nutrient movement.
Applying fertilizer unevenly is a frequent mistake that results in unsightly striping or streaking across the lawn. Using a calibrated broadcast or drop spreader and ensuring a slight overlap on each pass helps distribute the product uniformly. Additionally, using “weed and feed” products at the wrong time is counterproductive; the herbicides in these products have specific timing requirements that may not align with the grass’s optimal fertilization window.