When Should You Bring Ferns Inside for Winter?

Ferns are a popular choice for adding lush, tropical texture to both indoor and outdoor spaces. Because many of the most common varieties are native to warm, humid climates, their survival through the colder months depends entirely on timely protection. Successfully overwintering these plants requires understanding the specific temperature thresholds that trigger damage and implementing a careful seasonal transition plan. These steps will ensure your ferns remain healthy and vibrant until they can return to the garden next spring.

Determining the Ideal Time Based on Fern Hardiness

The timing for moving your ferns inside is dictated by the specific type of fern you are growing, primarily distinguishing between hardy and tender varieties. Hardy ferns, such as the Christmas fern or Ostrich fern, tolerate freezing temperatures by going dormant, often requiring only a layer of mulch for root protection. However, popular container ferns, like the Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) and Maidenhair fern, are considered tender tropicals that cannot withstand frost.

You must plan to move any tropical fern indoors well before the first predicted hard frost, as freezing temperatures can cause significant damage to the fronds and root system. The most crucial indicator is the nighttime temperature consistently dropping below 55°F (13°C). Prolonged exposure to temperatures below this range will stress the plant. Bringing the plant inside while outdoor temperatures are still mild allows it to acclimate more gently to the indoor environment.

Preparing Your Ferns for the Indoor Transition

The transition from outdoor to indoor living requires a mandatory preparation phase focused on sanitation and inspection. Before moving the fern, inspect the entire plant thoroughly for hitchhiking pests, which thrive in the warm, dry air of a heated home and can quickly spread to other houseplants. Pay close attention to the undersides of fronds and stem junctions, looking for fine webbing (spider mites) or tiny, immobile bumps (scale insects).

Any damaged, yellowed, or heavily infested fronds should be lightly trimmed away to reduce stress on the plant and eliminate pest hiding spots. Next, thoroughly hose down the foliage with a gentle spray of room-temperature water to wash away dust and lingering insects. After this cleaning, place the newly-moved fern in a separate, isolated location for two to three weeks to ensure no hidden pests emerge.

Essential Winter Care for Indoor Ferns

Once your fern is situated indoors, the focus shifts to maintaining a suitable environment that mimics its native tropical habitat. Ferns require bright, indirect light, so positioning them near an east-facing window or a few feet away from a south-facing window is ideal. Direct, intense sunlight can easily scorch the delicate fronds.

The biggest challenge in winter is combating the dry air created by central heating systems, which causes many ferns to quickly dry out and turn brown. To maintain the high humidity levels these plants need, you can place the pot on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the bottom of the pot is elevated above the water line. Grouping several houseplants together also helps create a localized microclimate with naturally higher moisture content.

Maintain the indoor temperature between 60°F and 75°F, avoiding placement near cold drafts, heat vents, or radiators, which cause rapid temperature fluctuations. While the fern is resting during the lower light of winter, reduce the frequency of watering, but do not allow the potting mix to dry out completely. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist, but never soggy, as overwatering can lead to root rot.

Reacclimating Ferns in the Spring

When the threat of frost has definitively passed, and spring nighttime temperatures are consistently above 55°F (13°C), you can begin the process of moving your fern back outside. The transition must be gradual to prevent the foliage from being shocked by the increased intensity of the sun and wind. This gradual process is often called “hardening off.”

Start by placing the fern in a very shady, sheltered spot for just a few hours each day for the first week. Over the next one to two weeks, slowly increase the duration of its time outdoors and introduce it to slightly brighter light conditions. This measured approach allows the plant’s tissues to adjust to the outdoor environment, preventing frond burn and minimizing stress.