Tree tubes, also known as tree shelters, are protective plastic cylinders placed around newly planted seedlings to foster early development and safeguard the young tree. They function primarily as a physical barrier against browsing animals like deer, rabbits, and voles, which can severely damage tender bark and terminal buds. The tubes also create a localized microclimate, similar to a mini-greenhouse, trapping heat and humidity. This stimulates accelerated vertical growth, helping the tree quickly establish a dominant leader above potential deer browse height while offering protection from wind and herbicide spray applications.
Consequences of Delayed Removal
Leaving a tree tube in place for too long can severely compromise the tree’s long-term health and structural integrity. The most serious risk is stem girdling, which occurs when the expanding trunk pushes against the rigid plastic. This constricts the flow of water and nutrients through the tree’s vascular system, acting like a tourniquet. Stem girdling eventually starves the roots, leading to a slow decline and death of the tree.
The controlled environment encourages trees to focus energy on height rather than diameter, resulting in reduced caliper growth. This creates a tall, spindly trunk that lacks the necessary girth and strength to support its crown independently. Once the tube is removed, this weak trunk is highly susceptible to wind shear and may snap or bend permanently.
Prolonged enclosure also creates an environment conducive to biological hazards. The tube can trap moisture and organic debris, such as dead leaves or grass, against the bark, which encourages the growth of mold, fungus, and bark rot. Furthermore, the sheltered space can become a nesting site for pests, including mice, voles, and wasps, which can damage the bark.
Indicators for Optimal Removal Timing
Determining the precise moment for tree tube removal relies on observing specific physical indicators of the tree’s development. The most straightforward metric is the height threshold, typically met when the tree has grown significantly above the top of the tube, often reaching 5 to 6 feet. Once the dominant leader has fully emerged and established a crown, the tree is generally past the most vulnerable stage of deer browsing.
The primary indicator is the trunk’s caliper, or diameter, which must be adequate to support the tree against wind forces. The trunk should be approximately 3 to 3.5 inches in diameter near the base before the support is removed. A simple physical test involves gently unhooking the tube and pushing the tree slightly; a ready tree will spring back quickly and firmly to vertical, indicating sufficient stem strength.
The rate of growth varies considerably among tree species. Fast-growing species, such as maples or poplars, may reach the required size within three to five years and need earlier removal. Slower-growing hardwoods, like oaks or hickories, may require the tube to remain in place for up to eight years to achieve adequate caliper growth and stem hardening.
The ideal time for physical removal is during the tree’s dormant season, generally spanning from late fall to early spring. Removing the tube in late summer or early fall is particularly beneficial because it exposes the trunk to natural temperature fluctuations. This exposure allows the tree to properly “harden off” and acclimate to cold weather, preparing it for winter and reducing the risk of frost damage.
Method for Minimizing Tree Damage During Removal
The physical process of removing the tree tube must be executed with care to prevent accidental injury to the newly exposed bark. For tubes that are not split or perforated, the safest technique involves using a sharp utility knife or shears to cut the tube vertically down one side. This single cut allows the rigid plastic to be peeled away from the trunk without pulling the tube up and over emerging side branches, which could cause breakage.
Before making the cut, it is necessary to carefully remove all support materials, including the ties and the staking post. Once the tube is off, a thorough inspection of the trunk is recommended to check for signs of pest activity or moisture damage. Any weak, spindly branches that grew inward due to the tube’s confinement should be pruned back to encourage a healthy, natural branching structure.
If the trunk proves too flexible or the tree is top-heavy after removal, temporary staking may be necessary to prevent leaning. If re-staking is required, use soft, wide material like rubber or cloth strapping to secure the trunk loosely. This loose securing allows for natural movement, which is necessary for the trunk to develop the reaction wood needed for long-term strength. The loose tie also prevents the new support from causing girdling damage.