Pruning is a transformative practice for Lavandula species, commonly known as lavender. Regular trimming prevents the plant from becoming woody and leggy, a tendency that shortens its lifespan and reduces flowering potential. Pruning encourages new, green growth, which supports abundant flower production, shapes the shrub into a compact form, and promotes better air circulation. Removing spent stems directs the plant’s energy toward creating new shoots rather than producing seed, ensuring a vigorous, long-lived plant.
Timing the Main Annual Structural Trim
The most impactful pruning of the year, the structural trim, should happen immediately after the main flush of flowers fades, typically in mid-to-late summer. This timing is optimal because the plant has finished its major bloom cycle and still has enough time to produce new foliage that can harden off before winter. For most established varieties, the general rule is to remove about one-third of the green growth, cutting into the soft, leaf-bearing stems and avoiding the gray, leafless woody base.
Specific timing depends heavily on the lavender variety. English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and its hybrids are the most resilient and benefit from a substantial cut after their main summer bloom, often in late August. You can safely remove up to two-thirds of the stem height, ensuring you leave at least one to two inches of green foliage above the woody base. This heavier pruning prevents the plant from splaying open and becoming overly woody.
French and Spanish Lavender (L. stoechas and L. dentata) require a gentler approach due to their different growth habits. These varieties tend to bloom earlier and often rebloom in warmer climates. The main structural trim should occur right after the first major flowering cycle, generally in mid-summer. Only remove the spent flowers and lightly shape the foliage. These less hardy types should not be cut back as hard as English varieties, as they are sensitive to cuts into older wood.
Deadheading and Mid-Season Refresh
Deadheading is the act of removing spent flower spikes, a light form of pruning performed continuously during the blooming period. This activity is separate from the structural cut and encourages the plant to produce subsequent flushes of blooms. Snipping off fading flower heads prevents the plant from expending energy on seed production, redirecting resources back into vegetative growth.
For varieties that naturally rebloom, such as French and Spanish lavender, this light trimming is important for maintaining a tidy appearance and extending the flowering season. Even for English lavender, a quick mid-season refresh helps maintain a neat, mounded shape. When deadheading, make the cut just above the first set of leaves below the spent flower spike.
Severe Cutbacks for Rejuvenation
A severe cutback, also known as restorative pruning, is reserved for neglected plants that have become woody, sprawling, or leggy. The timing for this risky procedure is strictly in early spring, just as the first signs of new green growth appear. This narrow window allows the plant the longest possible recovery period before winter arrives.
The danger of this cut lies in the plant’s inability to regenerate new growth from old, gray wood—the leafless base of the shrub. If attempting a rejuvenation cut, try cutting back to the lowest emerging bud or to a point where you see a hint of green growth, but this is a gamble. Never remove all green foliage, as this can easily kill the plant. A severely woody plant may be beyond saving and should be replaced, as it will never fully regain its dense, compact shape.
Pruning Windows to Avoid
Pruning at the wrong time can cause harm, potentially weakening or killing the plant, especially in colder climates. The period to avoid major pruning is late fall and early winter. Cutting back the plant too late stimulates tender new growth that will not have enough time to “harden off” before cold weather arrives.
This soft, new foliage is highly susceptible to frost damage, which can travel down the stem and compromise the entire plant. To ensure safety, complete your main structural trim at least six to eight weeks before your area’s average first expected frost date. Never prune during deep winter or freezing temperatures, as the plant is dormant and the cold can stress it, leaving it vulnerable to disease and damage.