Pachysandra, often called Japanese Spurge, is a widely used, low-maintenance evergreen groundcover valued for its ability to create a dense, green carpet in shaded areas. Pachysandra spreads effectively through underground stems (rhizomes), making it effective for covering large spaces and controlling soil erosion. Successful relocation depends primarily on timing the move to minimize transplant shock, allowing the plant to focus energy on establishing new roots.
Identifying the Ideal Window
The most advantageous period for transplanting Pachysandra is early spring, just as the plant emerges from its winter dormancy but before it begins significant active growth. Moving the plants at this time allows the root system to re-establish itself in the new location before the stress of summer heat arrives. The cool, moist soil characteristic of early spring provides an ideal environment for root development, which is necessary for water and nutrient uptake.
An alternative, though slightly less optimal, window is the early fall, once daytime temperatures have moderated and consistently cool nights return. Transplanting in the fall is successful because the plant’s above-ground growth slows down, reducing the demand for water from the newly disturbed roots. This allows roots to grow in the warm soil before the ground freezes, aiding establishment before spring. Complete the fall transplanting at least four to six weeks before the first hard frost to ensure the roots have enough time to anchor the plant.
Preparing and Moving Pachysandra
The preparation process should begin at the new planting site by amending the existing soil with organic matter, such as compost, which improves drainage and nutrient retention. Incorporate a layer of compost into the top four to six inches of the bed to aid the re-establishment process. Digging the receiving holes before lifting the plants ensures the roots are exposed for the shortest possible duration.
When lifting the plants, use a sharp spade to cut around the clump, aiming to secure a manageable section of the dense root mat. Separate the plants by dividing the rhizomes, ensuring each new section contains roots and stems. The goal is to retain as much of the root system as possible, keeping the root ball intact to minimize root drying and disturbance.
Place the newly separated clump into the prepared hole at the same depth it was growing previously. Backfill the hole with the amended soil, gently tamping it down around the base of the plant to eliminate any air pockets that could cause the roots to dry out. Space the new clumps six to twelve inches apart to allow adequate room for future expansion via new rhizomes.
Essential Care Following Transplantation
Immediate and consistent hydration is the most important factor following transplantation to counteract moisture loss from the disturbed root system. Saturate the soil around the newly planted clumps immediately after placing them in the ground to settle the soil and fully hydrate the roots. For the first four to six weeks, maintain consistently moist soil, supplying approximately one inch of water per week through rainfall or supplemental watering.
Applying a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or wood chips, around the base of the plants helps to regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture. Keep the mulch from directly touching the plant stems to prevent potential fungal issues. Monitor the plants closely for signs of wilting or leaf scorching, as these symptoms indicate transplant shock. Temporary shade or more frequent, light watering may be necessary if the plants show severe stress during the initial establishment phase.