The lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) is a beloved ground-covering perennial known for its fragrant, bell-shaped white flowers and deep green foliage. It spreads via underground stems called rhizomes, which can form dense patches. Transplanting is necessary to control its vigorous spread or to divide crowded clumps showing reduced flowering. Successful moving depends on respecting the perennial’s natural biological rhythms to minimize stress.
Optimal Timing for Moving Lily of the Valley
The most favorable time for relocating Convallaria majalis is during dormancy, when the plant is not actively growing. Transplanting during this resting phase allows the plant to focus energy on establishing new roots rather than supporting active leaves and flowers. Moving the plant during the summer, while it is in full leaf, causes excessive shock and requires intensive aftercare.
The two best windows for transplanting are late fall or very early spring. In late autumn, transplantation should occur after the foliage has naturally yellowed and died back, typically four to six weeks before the ground freezes solid. This timing provides the rhizomes with a period of cool, moist soil to develop new anchoring roots before winter.
Moving the lily of the valley in early spring is also highly effective. This window begins as soon as the soil is workable, but before the new leaf shoots have fully emerged. Spring transplanting allows the plant to quickly transition into its new location just as the growing season begins. Both fall and spring offer the cooler temperatures and natural moisture levels that aid root establishment.
Preparing the Rhizomes and New Location
Before lifting the plants, prepare the new site to ensure a smooth transition. Convallaria majalis thrives in conditions similar to a woodland floor, preferring partial to full shade and soil rich in organic matter. Loosen the soil at the new location to a depth of about 12 inches and incorporate amendments like compost or well-rotted manure to improve fertility and moisture retention.
When digging up the existing clump, use a garden fork to carefully lift the roots, moving six to eight inches away from the center to minimize damage to the root ball. Once lifted, gently separate the rhizomes, which are commonly referred to as “pips” due to their pointed growing tip. Each separated section should retain a healthy network of roots and at least one viable pip to ensure successful regrowth.
Discard any pips that appear soft, damaged, or unhealthy, focusing only on firm, robust divisions for replanting. To encourage better water absorption, lightly trim the ends of the roots before planting. This preparation ensures that only the strongest plant material is used and is ready to establish itself immediately in the enriched soil.
Planting and Immediate Aftercare
When planting the separated pips, position the rhizome so the pointed tip rests just below or is barely level with the soil surface. Dig a small hole and spread the roots out in a radial pattern, ensuring they are not bunched or bent sharply upwards. Space the individual pips four to six inches apart to allow adequate room for lateral spread and development into a dense groundcover.
The most important step immediately following planting is a deep and thorough watering. This initial irrigation settles the soil firmly around the roots, eliminating air pockets that could cause the root hairs to dry out. Maintaining consistent moisture is necessary for the first four to six weeks, as the newly transplanted pips work to establish their root systems.
During this establishment period, the soil should remain evenly moist, but not saturated, to prevent root rot. Avoid applying high-nitrogen fertilizer immediately, as the plant’s energy should be directed toward root growth, not premature leaf development. A light layer of organic mulch can be applied around the new planting area to help regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture.