Asparagus is a perennial crop that can remain productive in the garden for twenty years or more, but relocating an established bed sometimes becomes necessary. Transplanting involves carefully moving the entire underground crown structure, not just planting a new, year-old crown. This process must be timed precisely to minimize shock to the plant and ensure its recovery. The success of the move depends entirely on respecting the plant’s biological cycle.
Identifying the Right Time to Move Asparagus
The most suitable period for transplanting asparagus is when the plant is completely dormant. Moving the crowns during the active growing season, when the plant is producing green spears or ferns, would be highly detrimental and often fatal. The dormant phase allows the plant to tolerate the significant root disturbance involved in the move.
There are two optimal windows for this activity: late fall and very early spring. In the fall, transplanting should happen after the ferns have naturally died back and turned brown or yellow, typically following the first hard freezes. This signals that the plant has finished storing energy for the year.
Alternatively, the crowns can be moved in the very early spring, just as the ground has thawed but before any new spears begin to emerge. Many gardeners prefer the spring timing as it allows the crown to begin establishing new feeder roots immediately as the soil warms. Regardless of the season chosen, transplanting must be finished before the plant breaks dormancy to prevent severe disruption of nutrient reserves.
Preparing the Crowns for Relocation
Before digging, cut the dead or yellowed ferns back to ground level if transplanting in the fall or early winter. If transplanting in the early spring, the ferns should have already been cut back. It is helpful to place a marker, such as a cane, near the center of the crown’s location to guide the excavation.
Digging up the crown requires great care to retain as much of the root mass as possible. Asparagus roots can extend deep and wide, sometimes over three feet in diameter, so establish a wide perimeter before digging down. Using a garden fork rather than a spade helps to loosen the soil and avoid slicing through the fleshy storage roots, which hold the necessary energy reserves.
Start digging a trench well outside the estimated root zone and work inward, gently prying the soil to lift the large, tangled root mass. Once lifted, the crown may be gently divided into smaller sections with a sharp knife if it is very large. Minimize damage to the roots, as they are essential for water and nutrient uptake in the new location.
Replanting and Immediate Aftercare
The new location requires a trench wide enough to accommodate the roots (12 to 18 inches) and deep enough to set the crown at the correct level. Build a small mound of soil or compost in the center of the trench bottom. This mound provides a base for the crown, allowing the roots to be carefully draped downward and outward around it.
Position the crown on the mound so the top, or “growing points,” sit approximately two inches below the final soil surface. After spreading the roots evenly, backfill the trench with soil, ensuring no air pockets remain. Thoroughly water the bed to settle the soil and initiate contact between the roots and the surrounding earth.
For the first few weeks after transplanting, consistent moisture is necessary to help the crown establish itself, but the soil must never be soggy. The most important aftercare step is to completely forego harvesting any spears that appear in the first full growing season following the move. Allowing all growth to mature into ferns is mandatory, as this process replenishes the crown’s depleted energy reserves, ensuring the plant thrives in its new home.