Growing strawberries in a home garden is a rewarding endeavor across Georgia, but success depends heavily on understanding the state’s unique climate and following precise planting schedules. The mild winters and long, hot summers of the region necessitate a focused approach to timing and variety selection that differs significantly from northern climates. By aligning planting efforts with the natural dormancy and growth cycles of the strawberry plant, growers can maximize root establishment and ensure a bountiful harvest. The decision of when to plant is a layered one, affected by whether a grower is in North, Central, or South Georgia.
Optimal Planting Windows in Georgia
The best time to plant dormant, bare-root strawberry plants in Georgia falls into two distinct windows: autumn and late winter. The choice depends on the grower’s location and desired system. For most of Central and North Georgia, the preferred time is late fall, specifically between late October and mid-November. This timing allows the plants to establish a robust root system during the cooler months and accumulate the necessary chilling hours to produce fruit the following spring.
Fall planting is well-suited for the annual hill system, a common commercial practice where plants are set out in the fall and harvested the next spring. In the milder climate of South Georgia, this fall window extends slightly later, sometimes into early December. Planting after the peak heat of summer reduces stress on newly planted crowns, allowing them to focus energy on root development.
The alternative window is late winter or very early spring, typically from late January to mid-March. This timing is often used if fall planting was missed or for the matted-row system common in North Georgia. Plant as soon as the soil is workable, which can be as early as late January in South Georgia or late February in Central Georgia. Early spring planting gives the plants a head start on root growth before the intense heat of the Georgia summer begins. Planting later than mid-March risks poor establishment due to rapidly rising soil temperatures.
Selecting the Best Strawberry Varieties for the Region
The choice of strawberry variety is closely tied to the planting system and the specific USDA Hardiness Zone within Georgia (7a to 8b). June-bearing varieties are the most common type used in Georgia. They produce one large, concentrated crop of fruit over a two- to three-week period in late spring or early summer. These varieties perform best in the matted-row system (North Georgia) or the annual hill system (middle and southern regions).
Popular June-bearing cultivars adapted to the Georgia climate include ‘Chandler,’ known for its large fruit and good flavor, and ‘Sweet Charlie,’ an early producer. These types require cold dormancy, or chilling hours, to maximize their yield. Their performance depends on their ability to tolerate the heat and humidity, and their resistance to common diseases like anthracnose.
Day-neutral and everbearing varieties offer a different option, producing fruit continuously throughout the growing season, provided temperatures are between 35°F and 85°F. Everbearing types like ‘Ozark Beauty’ provide smaller, successive harvests from spring until the first frost. Day-neutral varieties, such as ‘Seascape,’ are a good choice for container or raised bed culture. These varieties are less reliant on the winter chill and can be more forgiving of a slightly later planting.
Essential Steps for Preparing the Planting Site
Preparation of the planting site must occur well before the chosen fall or spring window. Strawberries require full sun, meaning the site should receive at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day to support high fruit production and reduce disease pressure. Good air circulation is also important, so planting beds should not be sheltered by tall structures or dense shrubs.
The soil must be well-drained and fertile, as strawberry roots are susceptible to root rot in standing water, a concern given Georgia’s heavy clay soils. Gardeners should aim for a slightly acidic pH level, ideally between 5.5 and 6.5, confirmed with a soil test. Amending the soil with organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, improves both drainage and water retention.
For best results, especially in areas with poor drainage, constructing raised beds or mounding the soil into high rows is recommended. Once the dormant bare-root plants arrive, soak the roots in water for 30 minutes to one hour to rehydrate them. Trim any excessively long roots slightly to encourage new growth and allow them to fan out properly in the planting hole.
When placing the plant, the most important detail is to set the crown—the central growing point—precisely at the soil line. Burying the crown too deeply will cause it to rot. Planting it too high will expose and dry out the roots. Ensure the roots hang straight down and are not bent into a “J” shape to guarantee a strong start.