The Skip Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus ‘Schipkaensis’) is a hardy evergreen shrub prized for its dense foliage and rapid growth, making it an excellent choice for privacy screens and hedges. This plant provides year-round color and structure in the landscape. Ensuring the successful establishment of this shrub depends on selecting the appropriate season for installation, which minimizes stress and allows the root system to properly anchor.
Optimal Timing for Planting
The most favorable time to introduce Skip Laurel centers around periods of moderate temperatures and reliable moisture, typically during the plant’s natural dormancy. The first primary window is early spring, starting immediately after the danger of the last hard frost has passed but before sustained high summer heat. Planting at this time allows roots to begin active growth in cool soil while the above-ground canopy remains relatively dormant, reducing transplant shock.
The second and often preferred window is early fall, specifically six to eight weeks before the ground is expected to freeze solid. This timing provides ample opportunity for the root system to establish itself in still-warm soil without the burden of supporting new leaf growth. Strong root development during the fall prepares the plant to withstand winter desiccation and allows it to flourish immediately when spring arrives.
Planting during the mid-summer months is discouraged because intense heat and high rates of evapotranspiration place severe stress on a newly disturbed root system. Similarly, installing Skip Laurel in mid-winter when the ground is frozen prevents any root growth, leaving the plant vulnerable to winter damage and desiccation. Focusing on the dormant periods maximizes the plant’s energy reserves for root establishment rather than leaf production.
Site Preparation and Soil Needs
Assessing and preparing the chosen site is paramount to the Skip Laurel’s long-term health. This shrub performs well in a range of light conditions, tolerating everything from full sun to partial shade. Optimal growth and density are achieved when the plant receives at least six hours of direct sunlight.
The condition of the soil significantly influences success, particularly its drainage characteristics. Skip Laurel is intolerant of “wet feet”; standing water or consistently saturated soil quickly leads to root rot and plant decline. A well-draining location ensures that oxygen can reach the root zone, which is necessary for healthy cellular respiration.
The ideal soil structure should be loamy, rich in organic matter, and possess a slightly acidic to neutral pH, typically ranging between 6.0 and 7.0. If the existing soil is heavy clay, amending the planting area with compost or aged manure will improve both drainage and nutrient retention. For sandy soils, incorporating organic material will help increase water-holding capacity.
Essential Planting Steps
The preparation of the planting hole is the first physical step in installation, and the dimensions are specific to encourage lateral root growth. The hole should be dug two to three times wider than the diameter of the root ball but no deeper than the root ball’s height. This width allows the new, fine feeder roots to easily penetrate the surrounding, looser soil structure.
Once the hole is prepared, the root ball requires attention, especially if the plant was grown in a container for an extended period. If the roots appear tightly circled or matted, they must be gently loosened or lightly scored with a knife to encourage them to grow outward into the native soil. Failure to break up a root-bound structure can lead to the roots continuing to circle, ultimately strangling the plant.
The shrub should then be placed in the center of the hole so that the top of the root ball, known as the root flare or crown, is level with the surrounding soil grade. Planting too deep is a common mistake that can suffocate the roots and invite disease problems. After correctly positioning the plant, the native soil should be mixed with any amendments and used to backfill the hole in increments.
As the soil is replaced, gently tamp it down to eliminate large air pockets, but avoid compacting the soil excessively. Following the backfilling process, the shrub requires an immediate and thorough deep watering to settle the soil around the roots and remove any remaining air pockets. Finally, apply a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch, like shredded bark, over the planting area, keeping the mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup and rot.