The pecan is an icon of the Texas landscape and culture. Successfully establishing a pecan tree requires precise timing, especially given the state’s challenging climate. Planting at the correct time maximizes the tree’s chance of survival by allowing it to establish a root system before the intense heat of the Texas summer arrives. This guidance focuses on best practices for maximizing the survival rates of young pecan trees in Texas.
Optimal Planting Times and Dormancy
The most favorable period for planting pecan trees in Texas aligns with the tree’s natural dormant season, which typically spans from late fall through early spring. This window allows the tree to focus its energy on root development rather than supporting a full canopy of leaves. Planting a tree while it is dormant reduces the shock of transplanting and prepares it for the following growing season.
For bare-root pecan stock, the optimal planting time is often concentrated in January and February, before any signs of bud break occur. Bare-root trees must be planted during this deep dormancy period to prevent the roots from drying out. Planting in early winter, such as December, allows for some root growth before the spring flush, providing a distinct advantage against the summer heat.
Container-grown pecan trees offer more flexibility in planting schedules because their root systems are protected by soil. While they can technically be planted almost anytime, the fall or winter months still yield the highest survival rates. Planting a container tree in the spring or summer increases the risk of water stress and mortality due to rapid moisture loss, making the dormant season preferable even for this stock. Regional variations exist, but the principle of planting before spring growth remains consistent across the state.
Choosing the Right Stock and Site Preparation
Selecting the appropriate tree stock and preparing the site are actions taken long before the shovel breaks ground. Bare-root trees are frequently favored for their lower cost and the ease with which root defects can be identified and corrected before planting. However, bare-root stock requires immediate planting upon receipt, as the exposed roots are highly vulnerable to desiccation.
Container-grown trees are typically older and larger at planting, but they must be carefully inspected for circling or girdling roots that can compromise long-term health. Choosing a variety that is well-suited to the local Texas climate is important, considering factors like disease resistance, particularly to pecan scab, and the required chill hours for nut production. Pecan trees are wind-pollinated and require a Type I and a Type II flowering variety planted nearby to ensure a consistent crop.
Pecans thrive best in deep, well-drained soil, as their taproots can extend many feet into the ground. A site with poor drainage can lead to root rot and tree death, making a simple percolation test a valuable pre-planting step. Given the mature size of the tree, which can reach a canopy spread of 40 to 75 feet, adequate spacing is necessary to prevent overcrowding and ensure full sun exposure. A pre-planting soil test is recommended to assess pH and nutrient levels, allowing for any necessary amendments to be incorporated before the tree is set.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
The physical act of planting begins with digging a hole that is significantly wider than the root system but no deeper than the height of the root ball. A wide hole encourages the lateral roots to grow outward into the surrounding, uncompacted native soil. If planting bare-root stock, trim off any damaged or broken roots and soak the entire root system for three to six hours prior to planting to rehydrate them.
The tree must be set at the correct depth, ensuring the root flare sits level with or slightly above the final soil grade. For grafted trees, the graft union must also remain several inches above the ground to prevent the scion from developing roots. Backfill the hole exclusively with the native soil that was removed, gently tamping it to eliminate large air pockets without compacting the soil excessively.
Once the hole is partially filled, apply a thorough watering to settle the soil around the roots. After the water has drained, finish filling the hole and then create a small, circular berm or dike of soil around the edge of the planting area. This temporary ring will help capture and direct subsequent irrigation water toward the new root zone.
Initial Post-Planting Care
The first year after transplanting is the most critical phase for a young pecan tree, with water stress posing the greatest threat to survival. Immediately after planting, the tree requires a deep soaking to fully saturate the backfill soil and eliminate any remaining air pockets around the roots. Throughout the first growing season, a consistent and deep watering schedule is necessary, often requiring one or two deep irrigations per week during periods without substantial rainfall.
To prevent excessive moisture loss and regulate soil temperature, a layer of organic mulch should be applied over the planting area. The mulch should extend out to the drip line, but keep it pulled back several inches from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup that can lead to rot or pest issues. Protecting the trunk from sunscald is accomplished by using a commercial tree guard or painting the trunk with a diluted white latex paint.
For bare-root trees, it is necessary to “head back” or prune the top one-third to one-half of the central leader immediately after planting. This action balances the reduced root system with the upper canopy, thereby reducing the moisture demand on the establishing roots. Avoid fertilization during this initial establishment year, as the high salt content in most fertilizers can burn the sensitive new roots.