Mulberry trees are resilient, fast-growing fruit trees, offering abundant berries and quick shade. While adaptable to various conditions, their successful establishment hinges on planting them at the correct time. Getting the timing right ensures the roots have the maximum opportunity to grow before facing the stresses of the growing season.
Optimal Timing Based on Tree Type
The best time to plant a mulberry tree depends heavily on whether you purchase a bare-root specimen or one grown in a container. Bare-root trees require planting during the tree’s natural resting period, or dormancy. This window spans from late fall to early spring, with late winter or very early spring offering the greatest success rate before bud break. Planting during dormancy allows the roots to begin growing immediately once the soil warms, giving them a head start before the tree needs to support a full canopy of leaves.
Planting bare-root stock must be completed before the tree exits dormancy, as top-growth without established roots can be highly stressful. The specific timing is influenced by local climate; colder regions must wait until the ground is workable, while warmer areas can plant as early as late fall. Always check the last expected frost date for your hardiness zone and aim to plant several weeks before the average date of bud swell.
Containerized trees offer more flexibility for planting time. They can be successfully planted almost any time the ground is not frozen, but spring or fall remains the most successful period. Planting in spring allows the tree to establish roots during active growth, while fall planting takes advantage of cooler temperatures and natural rainfall. Avoid planting during the peak of summer heat, as high temperatures and intense watering requirements can overwhelm a newly planted tree.
Preparing the Planting Location
Careful site selection should be completed well before the planting date. Mulberries thrive in full sun, requiring a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal growth and fruit production. While they tolerate a variety of soil types, including clay and sandy loam, the soil must be well-draining to prevent waterlogging and root rot.
Mulberries prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH, ideally between 6.0 and 7.0, so testing the existing soil is recommended. If the soil is heavy clay, amending it with organic matter like compost can improve fertility and drainage. However, primarily use the native soil for backfilling. Only slightly modify the planting hole to encourage roots to spread into the surrounding environment rather than remaining confined to the amended area.
Executing the Planting Process
Planting requires attention to depth to ensure the tree’s long-term health. The planting hole should be dug two to three times wider than the root ball or the spread of bare roots, but no deeper than the height of the root ball. This wide, shallow hole ensures that roots can easily grow outward into the looser surrounding soil, promoting rapid establishment.
Before placing the tree, locate the root flare—the point where the trunk widens into the root system. This flare must be situated at or slightly above the finished grade of the surrounding soil, as burying the trunk bark can lead to rot and decline. For containerized trees, any circling roots should be gently loosened or scored to encourage them to grow straight outward. Bare roots should be spread out evenly within the hole.
As you backfill the hole with the original soil, lightly tamp it down to eliminate air pockets that can dry out the new roots. Stop halfway through to water thoroughly; this helps settle the soil around the roots before completing the backfill. Once the hole is filled, ensure the root flare remains visible above the soil line, resembling a gentle taper rather than a telephone pole stuck into the ground.
Initial Care for Establishment
The first few months following planting require consistent moisture to support root establishment. Newly planted mulberry trees need to be watered deeply and regularly, typically receiving one to two gallons of water per week for the first year, adjusted for rainfall and temperature. Keep the soil consistently moist, but never waterlogged, allowing the roots to grow.
Applying a two to four-inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or compost, around the tree helps regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture. Keep the mulch pulled back several inches from the trunk, creating a small ring of bare soil to prevent moisture accumulation against the bark and subsequent disease. If the tree is planted in an area with strong winds, temporary staking may be necessary for the first six to twelve months. Ensure the ties are loose enough to allow some trunk movement, which promotes strength. Remove any fruit that begins to form during the first two seasons to direct the tree’s energy into root development rather than reproduction.