Garlic is a rewarding and relatively simple cold-weather crop. Successful cultivation relies on planting at the right time in the fall, allowing cloves to establish a robust root system before winter. Proper timing harnesses the natural cold cycle of the Arkansas climate, which is necessary to trigger the development of a segmented bulb. Getting the planting date correct is the most significant factor in producing large, well-formed bulbs rather than a small, single-clove “round.”
The Critical Planting Window for Arkansas
The optimal time to plant garlic in Arkansas is in the fall, spanning from late October through November, well before the first hard freeze. This timing is crucial because the clove requires cold exposure, known as vernalization, to initiate division into multiple cloves. Planting during this window allows the clove to focus energy on growing a strong root structure before the ground freezes, anchoring the plant for the following year’s bulb development.
Planting too early (e.g., September) causes excessive top growth, making the plant vulnerable to winter conditions. Conversely, planting past mid-January prevents the clove from receiving the sufficient chilling hours required for vernalization. Without this cold period, the plant will not properly divide and will instead produce a single, smaller, undivided bulb called a “round.” Arkansas’s climate (USDA Zones 6b to 8a) naturally provides the 6 to 8 weeks of temperatures below 40°F that garlic needs, provided the clove is planted by late fall.
Preparing the Soil and Planting Technique
Garlic thrives in full sunlight and requires loose, friable, and exceptionally well-drained soil. Cloves will quickly rot in heavy, waterlogged conditions. Incorporating organic matter, such as well-aged compost, is important because garlic is a heavy feeder that requires sustained fertility.
Before planting, separate the bulbs into individual cloves, taking care not to break the papery skin or the basal plate where the roots emerge. Only the largest, healthiest cloves should be planted, as clove size directly correlates to the size of the mature bulb. Plant each clove pointed end up and flat end down, setting it two to three inches deep. Space the cloves approximately six inches apart. Once planted, immediately cover the bed with a four to six-inch layer of straw or other loose organic mulch to insulate the developing roots from fluctuating winter temperatures.
Winter Care and Spring Growth
Winter Care
After planting, the garlic enters a period of root development and dormancy throughout the winter months. The thick layer of mulch helps regulate soil temperature, protecting the cloves from damaging freeze-thaw cycles common in the region. Green shoots may emerge above the mulch during mild spells, which indicates the plant is establishing itself.
Spring Growth
As the weather warms in early spring, the garlic breaks dormancy and begins vigorous leaf growth. This is the ideal time to apply a light application of a balanced fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 blend, to support the rapid development of the foliage. Consistent moisture is important during this spring growth period, and the mulch helps retain water and suppress weeds. If growing a hardneck variety, a curled flower stalk called a scape will emerge in late spring; removing this scape redirects the plant’s energy into maximizing bulb size.
Harvesting and Curing Garlic
Harvesting
Garlic is harvested in early to mid-summer, typically from late May through July. The cue for harvest readiness is when the bottom three to four leaves have turned yellow or brown and dried out, while the top leaves are still green. Waiting too long can cause the bulbs to split open in the ground, compromising their storage life. To harvest, use a garden fork to gently lift the bulbs from the soil, being careful not to cut or bruise them. Do not attempt to pull the plants by the stems, as this can break the neck and damage the bulb.
Curing
Once lifted, gently brush off the excess soil and immediately move the entire plant, with the leaves and roots still attached, to a shaded, warm, and well-ventilated area for curing. This curing process typically takes two to four weeks and is necessary to dry the outer wrappers and set the bulb for long-term storage. The garlic is fully cured when the neck is dry and the outer skin is papery, at which point the stems and roots can be trimmed, and the bulbs stored in a cool, dry location.