Bermuda grass is a popular warm-season turf choice throughout the Southern United States, thriving in Alabama’s climate due to its excellent tolerance for heat and drought. This turfgrass is known for its aggressive growth habit and ability to form a dense, durable lawn. Successful establishment requires careful attention to timing and preparation before the peak of summer heat.
Identifying the Ideal Planting Window
The most crucial factor for successfully establishing Bermuda grass in Alabama is soil temperature, not the calendar date. The ideal planting window opens when the soil temperature, measured at a four-inch depth, is consistently between 65°F and 70°F. This temperature range typically translates to a planting season from late April or early May through the end of July. Planting during this period allows the newly developing turf to take advantage of the long, hot days that follow. Planting too early risks poor germination, while planting too late does not allow the turf enough time to establish before fall dormancy.
Pre-Planting Soil and Site Preparation
Soil Testing and Amendments
Thorough preparation of the planting site must occur before any grass material is introduced. The process begins with a soil test to determine the existing soil pH and nutrient levels. Bermuda grass performs best in a slightly acidic to neutral pH range of 5.8 to 7.0, and the test indicates if lime or sulfur amendments are needed.
Weed Control and Tilling
Existing weeds and undesirable turf must be completely eliminated to prevent competition with the new grass seedlings or sod roots. A non-selective herbicide, such as one containing glyphosate, should be applied to kill all current vegetation. After weed control, the soil should be cultivated or tilled to a depth of four to six inches to improve drainage and aeration. This tilling is also an opportunity to incorporate necessary soil amendments or a starter fertilizer. The final step involves grading and leveling the area to create a smooth, firm seedbed, which prevents water pooling.
Choosing the Right Planting Method
Homeowners typically have three establishment methods for Bermuda grass: seeding, sodding, or using vegetative material like sprigs and plugs.
Seeding
Seeding is the most economical choice, costing significantly less per square foot than sod, making it suitable for large residential projects. However, a seeded lawn requires patience, as it can take two to four months to develop into a dense, usable turf that can withstand regular foot traffic.
Sodding
Sodding provides instant results, offering a mature, green lawn immediately after installation. This is a major advantage for quick curb appeal or erosion control on slopes. Sod is substantially more expensive upfront, but it reduces the intensive, long-term establishment care required by seed. A sodded lawn can typically handle light use within two to three weeks.
Sprigging and Plugging
Sprigging or plugging involves planting small pieces of grass rhizomes or small turf sections. This serves as a middle-ground option that is cheaper than sod but establishes faster than seed.
Essential Post-Planting Establishment Care
The first few weeks after planting are crucial for successful establishment, revolving around precise watering and initial nutrition.
Watering Schedule
Immediately after installing sod, or for a period of seven to fourteen days after seeding, the top inch of soil must be kept constantly moist. This requires frequent, light watering multiple times a day for seed, or a deep soaking immediately after laying sod. Once the sod has rooted or the seeds have germinated, the watering frequency must be gradually reduced while the duration is increased to encourage deeper root growth.
Fertilization and Mowing
A starter fertilizer, which is low in nitrogen (N) but high in phosphorus (P), should be applied at the time of planting to stimulate robust root development. A common starter ratio is 10-10-10 or a similar high-P formulation. The first mowing should occur when the new growth reaches about two inches high, using a sharp blade set to the highest setting to avoid stressing the young turf.