A bare root tree is a deciduous tree or shrub that is harvested from the nursery field while it is completely dormant, typically between late fall and early spring. Unlike container-grown stock, it is shipped and sold without any soil surrounding its root system, hence the term “bare root.” This method is cost-effective and often promotes better establishment, but the tree’s survival relies entirely on correct timing and handling during its transit and planting.
The Ideal Timing: Understanding Dormancy
Bare root stock must be planted exclusively during the dormant season, the period when the tree has shed its leaves and suspended active growth. Planting while the tree is dormant minimizes transplant shock. Since there are no leaves, the tree loses far less water through transpiration, allowing the limited root system to establish without the immediate demand of supporting foliage.
The optimal window for planting is late winter or very early spring, after the most severe ground-freezing temperatures have passed but before the buds begin to swell and break. Planting at this moment allows the tree to take advantage of the cool, moist soil temperatures, which are ideal for initiating new root growth before the heat of the growing season arrives. Planting in the fall is sometimes possible in milder climates, but late winter planting is generally safer, as it prevents root damage from prolonged exposure to harsh, deep-freezing conditions.
Planting must happen before the tree emerges from dormancy, as new leaves demand water and nutrients that the still-developing root system cannot meet. The ground must also be workable—not frozen solid or excessively waterlogged—to ensure proper soil-to-root contact and prevent root suffocation. This narrow, climate-dependent window limits when bare root trees are available each year.
Critical Steps for Pre-Planting Care
The handling of a bare root tree between arrival and planting determines its initial health and long-term success. Upon receipt, immediately remove the tree from direct sunlight and store it in a cool, dark, non-freezing location, such as an unheated garage or basement. Keeping the temperature low helps maintain dormancy, which is paramount for survival.
The roots must never be allowed to dry out, as they lack the protection of surrounding soil. If planting cannot occur immediately, temporarily cover the roots with damp materials, such as shredded newspaper, peat moss, or sawdust, and keep them slightly moist. If the delay is more than a few days, the tree should be “heeled in,” which involves temporarily burying the roots in a shallow trench of soil or a container of damp mulch.
Just prior to planting, the roots require a final hydration soak to replenish moisture lost during transit. Placing the entire root system into a bucket of water for one to six hours is generally sufficient to fully hydrate the tissues. Avoid soaking for longer than 24 hours, as prolonged submersion can saturate the roots and cause them to drown.
Essential Planting Technique for Success
Proper planting technique begins by preparing a wide area, removing all grass and weeds from a circle at least three feet in diameter around the planting spot. The planting hole should be wide—ideally two to three times the width of the root spread—but only as deep as the root system. Digging a wide hole loosens the surrounding soil, encouraging rapid lateral root growth into the native soil.
Before placing the tree, create a small, firm mound of soil in the center of the hole to serve as a pedestal for the root crown. Place the tree on this mound, carefully draping the roots down and outward so they are fully spread and not bent or circling. The most important depth check is ensuring the root flare—the point where the trunk widens and transitions into roots—sits at or slightly above the finished soil grade.
Begin backfilling the hole with the original, unamended topsoil, gently shaking the tree to help settle the soil around the fine root hairs. When the hole is approximately half-full, water the soil thoroughly to collapse any air pockets that could dry out the roots. Finish backfilling, lightly tamping the soil with your foot to ensure firm contact, but avoid excessive compaction.
After the hole is filled, apply a generous layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, over the entire prepared area. The layer should be two to four inches deep, but it must be kept several inches away from the tree trunk to prevent moisture buildup and rot, often termed “volcano mulching.” Provide a thorough watering to settle the tree, and maintain consistent soil moisture throughout the tree’s first growing season.