A bare root rose is a plant shipped or sold in its dormant state, meaning it has no soil surrounding its roots and no foliage on its canes. This method allows the plant to be transported easily and cost-effectively during the cold season. Planting while the rose is still dormant minimizes transplant shock and allows the plant to establish a strong root system before the energy-demanding process of leaf-out and flowering begins. Getting the rose into the ground at the correct time ensures it will break dormancy naturally with the arrival of warmer weather, leading to vigorous growth and abundant blooms.
Optimal Timing for Planting
The ideal window for planting bare root roses is during the plant’s natural dormant period, which typically spans from late autumn through early spring. This planting time allows the root system to settle into the soil before the stress of summer heat and active growth. For most regions, the best time is in late winter or very early spring, immediately after the ground has thawed but before the canes begin to show new growth.
Planting should occur when the soil is workable, meaning it is not frozen or heavily saturated and muddy from spring rains. For colder climates, this often means planting after the last hard frost, usually between late February and early April. In milder climates, planting can also be done in late fall, approximately four to six weeks before the first hard frost, which gives the roots a head start on establishment. Waiting until the soil temperature has warmed to at least 40°F (4°C) is beneficial, as this encourages active root development.
Immediate Care and Preparation
The moment a bare root rose arrives, it requires immediate attention to prevent the roots from drying out. First, inspect the plant for health, ensuring the canes are firm and green, and the roots are light-colored and flexible. Any damaged, broken, or shriveled roots and canes should be cleanly pruned back to healthy tissue.
The next step is to rehydrate the plant by soaking the entire root system in a bucket of cool water for at least two to 24 hours before planting. This soaking process restores moisture lost during storage and shipping. If planting must be delayed beyond a few days, the rose should be temporarily stored by “heeling in.” Heeling in involves placing the roots in a shallow trench and covering them with moist soil or damp compost in a cool, dark location until the permanent planting site is ready.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Successful planting begins with selecting a site that receives a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily and has well-draining soil. Dig a spacious hole, aiming for approximately 18 to 24 inches wide and deep enough to accommodate the full spread of the roots without crowding. Amending the removed soil with compost or well-rotted manure before planting improves fertility and drainage.
Form a small cone of the amended soil in the center of the hole to support the rose’s crown. Place the rose over the cone, carefully spreading the roots out and down like spokes on a wheel. The placement of the bud union, the swollen area where the canes meet the roots, is important and varies by climate. In cold regions, the bud union should sit about one to two inches below the final soil line for frost protection, while in milder areas, it can be positioned at or slightly above the soil line.
Backfill the hole with the remaining amended soil, gently shaking the rose to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets. Lightly firm the soil with your hands or foot, taking care not to compact it excessively. A loose soil structure is necessary for air circulation and root penetration.
Essential Post-Planting Care
After the rose is securely in the ground, the first step is to water it thoroughly and deeply to settle the soil completely and provide immediate hydration to the roots. Continue to water the newly planted rose every few days for the first one to two weeks, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged.
To protect the newly planted canes from drying out and to shield emerging buds from late frost, create a protective mound of loose soil or mulch. This temporary mound should cover the lower canes, reaching a depth of four to eight inches, and it should remain in place for two to three weeks, or until new foliage begins to push through. Once new growth is visible, gently wash or spread the mounded material away from the canes. Finally, apply a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch over the entire root zone to help conserve moisture and keep the soil cool.