Bare root fruit trees are young trees harvested from a nursery field while dormant, meaning they have no leaves and no soil surrounding their roots. This method allows for efficient shipping and often leads to healthier establishment because the roots have not been confined to a container. Bare root trees must be planted while they remain dormant, a period when the tree’s metabolic activity is naturally slowed to conserve energy. Planting during this time minimizes the physiological stress, or transplant shock, that occurs when the root system is disturbed.
The Ideal Planting Window (Dormancy)
The biological necessity for planting bare root trees is the dormant state, where energy is focused on reserve storage rather than active growth. Planting during this phase ensures the tree is not simultaneously trying to support new leaves while establishing a new root system. This window typically opens after the first hard frosts in autumn and closes just before bud break in the late winter or very early spring.
The optimal time frame is generally late winter to very early spring, often spanning from January through March, before the buds begin to swell and open. This timing allows the roots to begin regenerating and anchoring themselves in the cool, moist soil before the demand of spring leaf growth begins. Soil must be workable, meaning it should not be frozen solid or excessively waterlogged, which would hinder root-to-soil contact and proper aeration.
Regional and Climate Considerations
While dormancy dictates the when in terms of the tree’s cycle, geographical location determines the specific calendar dates for the planting window. In warmer climates, such as USDA Hardiness Zones 8 through 10, the planting season can begin as early as late fall and extend through early winter. The milder winters in these regions allow the soil to remain workable for a longer period.
Conversely, in colder northern regions, like Zones 4 and 5, planting must be delayed until the threat of deep, prolonged soil freezing has passed, typically shifting the window to March or even early April. Monitoring local soil conditions is more reliable than a fixed date on the calendar. The soil must be thawed and dry enough that it crumbles when squeezed, not clumped or muddy. Saturated soil can lead to root rot and poor establishment.
Immediate Handling and Preparation
Immediate action is necessary upon receiving a bare root tree to prevent the exposed roots from drying out, which is the most common cause of failure. The roots should be inspected and kept in their original packaging or wrapped in damp material, such as peat moss, newspaper, or wood shavings, until planting. Store the tree in a cool, dark location, like an unheated garage or cellar, ideally around 40°F, to maintain dormancy.
Before planting, soak the roots in a bucket of water for a few hours up to six hours to fully rehydrate the root tissues. Prepare the planting site by digging a hole two to three times wider than the root spread, but only deep enough so the tree’s root collar sits at or slightly above the finished soil grade. Any damaged, broken, or circling roots should be cleanly pruned back to encourage new, outward growth.
Contingency Planning for Delayed Planting
Weather conditions or personal schedules can sometimes prevent immediate planting when the tree arrives. For short delays of up to a week, re-moisten the packing material around the roots and store the tree in a cool, dark location where temperatures remain above freezing. This keeps the tree dormant without risking desiccation.
If planting is delayed for more than ten days, a technique called “heeling in” is necessary to protect the roots. This involves temporarily burying the roots in a trench or a large container filled with moist soil, sand, or compost. The roots must be completely covered and the medium kept moist until the permanent planting site is ready.