Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that can produce spears for 15 to 30 years from a single planting. Unlike annual crops, asparagus requires a permanent home, making initial preparation and timing crucial for long-term success. Growing this crop in Georgia requires specific strategies, especially concerning planting time and soil conditions, to ensure the root systems thrive in the warmer Southern environment.
Preparing the Asparagus Bed
Establishing a bed that will last for decades begins with careful site selection and soil modification. Asparagus needs a location that receives full sunlight, ideally eight to ten hours daily. Proper drainage is paramount because the crowns will rot in perpetually soggy soil. Since many Georgia soils contain high clay content, planting in a raised bed or heavily amending the existing soil is often necessary.
Asparagus prefers a soil pH between 6.5 and 7.0, which is slightly higher than the typical acidity found in many Georgia gardens. A soil test should be conducted well in advance to determine if lime is needed to adjust the pH. This amendment must be incorporated deep into the soil before planting, as it is difficult to alter the soil composition once the crowns are established.
Before planting, all perennial weeds like Bermuda grass or nutsedges must be completely removed, as they compete heavily with slow-establishing asparagus. The planting site should be dug and loosened to a depth of 12 to 15 inches to give the fleshy roots ample room to spread. Generous amounts of organic matter, such as well-rotted compost, manure, or leaf mold, should be worked into the loosened soil to improve structure and fertility.
Optimal Timing and Planting Procedure in Georgia
The best time to plant dormant, one-year-old asparagus crowns in Georgia is in late winter or very early spring, typically February or March. Planting during this period allows the crowns to establish root systems before the onset of summer heat. A good rule of thumb is to plant as soon as the soil can be worked, well before the intense heat arrives, and when the soil temperature has reached about 60°F.
The preferred method involves planting crowns, which are one-year-old root systems, rather than starting from seed. Crowns shorten the time to the first harvest by at least a year. Begin by digging a trench 6 to 8 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches wide. If planting multiple rows, space the trenches at least three feet apart.
Create a small ridge or mound of soil, about two inches high, down the center of the trench. Place the crowns on top of this ridge, spreading the roots uniformly over the sides of the mound. Space the crowns approximately 12 to 18 inches apart within the trench.
After setting the crowns, cover them with only two inches of soil and water thoroughly. As the initial spears emerge and grow, gradually add more soil to the trench over the course of the first growing season. This incremental backfilling protects the emerging shoots and encourages a deeper, stronger root system. Continue this process until the trench is completely filled to the level of the surrounding soil.
Establishment Care and First Harvest
Immediate care following planting centers on consistent moisture and strict weed control to ensure the crowns focus energy on root development. Newly planted crowns require regular watering to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Applying a layer of mulch after the trench is fully filled helps suppress weeds and conserve soil moisture throughout the first summer.
During the first year, and ideally the second as well, no spears should be harvested; all growth must develop into mature, fern-like foliage. This fern growth photosynthesizes and creates the carbohydrates that are stored in the crown, which fuels the following year’s spear production. Any practice that interferes with maximum fern growth will negatively affect the plant’s long-term yield.
In late fall, once the ferns have turned brown and died back naturally, they should be cut down to the ground level. Wait until after a hard frost to ensure all nutrients have been fully transferred from the foliage to the crown. The first meaningful harvest should be delayed until the third spring after planting. This initial harvest should be limited to two to four weeks, but subsequent years allow for a six to eight-week window.