Clover food plots are favored by land managers because they provide a high-protein, year-round forage source for deer and other wildlife. As a perennial crop, clover can persist for multiple years from a single planting, offering a cost-effective and nutritious food supply. The success of a clover plot hinges on planting it at a time that allows for deep root establishment before weather extremes arrive. Understanding the precise timing windows, soil requirements, and specific variety traits determines success or failure.
Optimal Planting Seasons
The decision of when to plant clover revolves around two primary windows: late summer/fall or early spring. Late summer and early fall planting is often the preferred choice for establishing perennial clover plots. This timing allows seeds to germinate and develop a substantial root system during the cool, moist conditions of autumn. Well-rooted plants survive winter and experience a flush of growth when spring temperatures rise.
A good guideline for fall planting is to sow the seed approximately 45 days before the first expected hard frost. This ensures the seedlings have enough time to grow robust roots capable of surviving the dormant winter period. Fall planting also naturally reduces competition from warm-season annual weeds. Planting too late risks seedlings not establishing sufficiently before the ground freezes solid.
Early spring planting, typically done immediately after the last hard freeze, provides an alternative, especially in northern latitudes where the fall window is narrow. A popular method is “frost seeding,” which involves broadcasting seed onto frozen ground in late winter or very early spring. The natural freeze-thaw cycles work the tiny seeds into the soil, achieving necessary seed-to-soil contact without mechanical tilling. The main drawback of spring planting is intense competition from aggressive warm-season weeds and grasses.
Regional differences influence these windows. In the northern zones, both spring and fall plantings are common. In the deep Southern zones, the fall window is generally longer, and late spring planting is often avoided because intense summer heat and drought can kill young, shallow-rooted clover plants. Planting must occur when there is reliable moisture for germination, making the transition seasons the most reliable choices.
Pre-Planting Soil Preparation
Successful clover establishment begins with a comprehensive soil test. This analysis determines existing nutrient levels and, more importantly, the soil’s acidity (pH). Clover is a legume that performs poorly in acidic soil, making pH correction a mandatory step for a long-lasting plot.
Clover thrives best in a soil pH range of 6.0 to 7.0, with an ideal target between 6.5 and 7.0. If the soil test indicates a pH below this range, agricultural lime must be applied to raise the pH. Lime works slowly, often taking several months to neutralize soil acidity, so it should be applied three to six months prior to planting.
Once the pH is addressed, the physical preparation of the seedbed must occur. Existing weeds or grasses should be eliminated, often using a broad-spectrum herbicide, before tilling begins. Disking or tilling is then used to break up the soil and incorporate the lime and any recommended fertilizer, creating a fine and loose surface.
The final step is to ensure the seedbed is firm, not fluffy, using a cultipacker or roller over the tilled ground. A firm seedbed is necessary to control the planting depth of the small clover seeds and ensure good soil-to-seed contact. A properly prepared seedbed should be firm enough that a footprint leaves an impression of no more than half an inch deep.
Choosing the Right Clover Variety
Selecting the appropriate clover variety aligns the plot’s goals with the local climate and planting schedule. Clover types fall broadly into two categories: perennial and annual. Perennial clovers, such as Ladino and Durana white clovers, are the backbone of a long-term food plot program.
These perennial varieties spread via surface runners called stolons, allowing them to persist for three to five years or more under good management. They are generally slower to establish, benefiting most from fall planting that allows focus on root growth. Durana, a type of white clover, is valued for its dense, low growth and tolerance to heavy grazing pressure.
In contrast, annual clovers like Crimson and Berseem complete their life cycle in a single growing season. They are known for rapid, upright growth and are often utilized as a “nurse crop” when establishing a perennial plot. When mixed with perennial seeds, the annual clover quickly provides forage and helps suppress weeds while the slower-growing perennial variety establishes its root system.
Annual varieties are often better suited for spring planting because their rapid growth can quickly outcompete early weeds and provide a quick food source. Red clover is sometimes classified as a biennial or short-lived perennial; it is faster-growing and more tolerant of slightly lower pH and poorer soils than white clover, making it a versatile choice.
Post-Planting Care and Establishment
After the seed has been broadcast onto the firm seedbed, the immediate post-planting step is to secure seed-to-soil contact. This is usually accomplished by running a cultipacker or roller over the plot one final time. Clover seeds must be planted very shallowly—no more than a quarter-inch deep—and pressing them into the soil surface significantly improves germination rates.
The most important factor immediately following planting is moisture, as consistent water is necessary for the seeds to germinate and the young seedlings to survive. Planting should ideally be timed just before a forecasted rain event to provide the initial water required for the first two weeks of establishment. Without adequate moisture, clover seeds will germinate but the sprouts will quickly dry out and die.
Once the clover has established, management must shift toward controlling competition. Light mowing is a common practice, particularly in the first year, serving two purposes. Mowing suppresses taller weeds and grasses competing for sunlight, and it encourages the clover to branch out and spread via its stolons, promoting a denser stand.
Mowing should be done when the clover reaches a height of six to eight inches, with the mower set high to clip only the top third of the foliage. This clipping stimulates new, palatable growth and prevents weeds from producing seed. Mowing should be avoided during periods of drought or extreme heat, as this can stress and damage the young plants.