Strawberry plants, which are perennial, offer the benefit of self-propagation through runners, but they require relocation every few years to maintain high fruit production. Moving established plants or their new offspring, known as runners, is a horticultural practice aimed at renewing an aging bed and preventing overcrowding. Successful relocation depends on precise timing and careful technique to minimize the stress on the plant’s delicate system. The goal is to move the plant during a period of low metabolic activity to allow root establishment before it must support active growth or fruit development.
Optimal Seasonal Timing for Relocation
The two most effective windows for moving strawberry plants align with their natural periods of reduced growth: late summer/early fall and early spring. Moving a plant outside of these times, such as during peak fruiting or summer heat, causes severe transplant shock and can greatly diminish future harvests. The plant’s ability to survive relocation is linked directly to its state of dormancy or semi-dormancy.
Late summer through early fall, typically from mid-August to mid-September, is often the preferred time for relocating established mother plants and well-rooted runners. This timing is ideal because the plants are transitioning out of their fruiting season and into a semi-dormant state. Moving them allows the root system to establish itself in the new soil while temperatures are still warm enough for root growth but cool enough to prevent excessive water loss through the leaves.
Early spring, as soon as the soil is workable, presents the second opportunity and is especially effective for transplanting newly developed runners or bare-root plants purchased from a nursery. The plants are emerging from winter dormancy, and the cooler soil temperatures help reduce transpiration. This allows the plant’s energy to be directed toward developing a strong root structure before the onset of the active growing and fruiting season.
The ideal timing depends on the variety being grown. June-bearing strawberries, which produce one large crop, are best moved in the fall after their harvest is complete. Everbearing and day-neutral types are more commonly moved in early spring to encourage root development before their first flush of flowers. Regardless of the type, the goal is to give the plant four to six weeks of temperate weather for root establishment before extreme heat or a hard freeze.
Pre-Move Preparation and New Site Selection
Preparation for the move should begin by selecting and amending the new planting site well in advance of the transplanting day. Strawberries require a location that receives a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal fruit production and sweetness. The soil needs to be well-draining, as the shallow root system is highly susceptible to rot in soggy conditions.
The new bed’s soil should be slightly acidic, with an ideal pH range of 5.8 to 6.5; a soil test can confirm the current level. If the pH is outside this range, amendments like elemental sulfur to lower it or lime to raise it should be incorporated into the soil a year prior, if possible, as changes take time to fully integrate. Incorporating two to three inches of well-rotted compost or aged manure will also improve soil structure and organic matter content.
A week or two before the physical move, the existing plants should be prepared to reduce stress. Pruning away old leaves, diseased foliage, and excessive runners that are not being moved helps the plant focus its energy on the crown and roots. The original bed should be deeply watered 24 hours before the planned relocation, ensuring the root ball is moist and holds together easily when dug up. Preparing the new site and the plants ahead of time minimizes the time the roots are exposed to air.
The Physical Transplanting Process
The physical execution of the move must be done with care to preserve as much of the root system as possible. When digging up an established plant, a trowel or spade should be inserted six to eight inches away from the crown to lift a generous root ball. This large soil mass helps protect the fine, shallow roots from drying out and reduces the severity of transplant shock.
Plants should be handled by the leaves or the root ball, never by the delicate central crown, which is the growing point from which new leaves and flowers emerge. Before replanting, it is helpful to trim any excessively long or broken roots to about four to five inches to encourage new feeder root growth. The new planting hole should be wide enough to spread the roots naturally and deep enough to position the crown correctly.
The crown must be level with the soil surface, ensuring that the roots are completely covered but the leafy growing point is not buried. Burying the crown is one of the most common mistakes, leading to rot and plant death. Spacing requirements in the new bed depend on the variety and planting method. June-bearing plants are typically spaced 18 inches apart, while day-neutral and everbearing types can be placed closer, at 10 to 12 inches apart.
Post-Transplant Recovery and Care
Immediate, deep watering is required right after planting to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate any air pockets. The plant’s short-term recovery depends on consistent moisture; the soil should be kept uniformly moist but never saturated. Watering should be done in the morning to allow foliage to dry before nightfall, which helps prevent fungal diseases.
Monitoring for signs of transplant shock, such as wilting or drooping leaves, is important in the first week, and if it occurs, providing temporary afternoon shade can help. Applying a thin layer of organic mulch, such as straw or pine needles, around the plants helps regulate soil temperature and conserves moisture. The mulch should be kept away from the crown itself to prevent rot.
For any plants moved in the spring, it is necessary to sacrifice any flowers that appear immediately following the transplant. Pinching off these first blossoms redirects the plant’s energy away from fruit production and toward establishing a strong, healthy root system. This practice ensures that the plant is robust enough to support a heavier and higher-quality harvest in subsequent years.