Daffodils (Narcissus) are recognized as one of the first and most cheerful heralds of spring. These hardy perennial bulbs multiply over time, forming dense clumps that eventually require thinning to maintain vigor. A common reason to move them is a decline in the size or number of blooms, which signals overcrowding beneath the soil. Gardeners also frequently move daffodil bulbs for landscape redesign or because the original location has become too shaded. Successfully moving these bulbs depends on respecting the plant’s unique biological rhythm.
Understanding the Daffodil Life Cycle
The daffodil’s success in blooming year after year is directly tied to the foliage that appears after flowering. Once the petals fade, the plant enters a storage phase where the green leaves become the powerhouse for next year’s bloom. Through photosynthesis, the leaves convert sunlight into carbohydrates, which are then stored in the underground bulb. This energy reserve is the sole fuel source for the subsequent spring’s flower bud development.
Removing or cutting the green foliage prematurely interrupts this carbohydrate transfer, significantly weakening the bulb. The leaves must be allowed to yellow and die back naturally, a process that typically takes six to eight weeks after the bloom has finished. When the foliage is completely brown and withered, the plant has entered its dormant phase, meaning the bulb is fully charged and ready to be lifted. This waiting period ensures a robust flower display the following spring.
The Optimal Timing for Transplanting
Moving daffodils revolves around their dormancy, creating two practical windows of opportunity. The ideal time occurs in late spring to early summer, once the foliage has completely died back and turned brown. This period is perfect because the bulbs have finished storing energy, and the dead leaves still provide a visual marker of the bulb’s exact location underground.
The second acceptable time is in the late summer or early fall, before the first hard frost arrives. If you choose this fall window, you must have marked the locations earlier in the year since the above-ground plant material will be gone. Attempting to move bulbs while they are actively growing or blooming (“in the green”) is highly discouraged. Transplanting during active growth stresses the plant and compromises the bulb’s ability to store energy, often resulting in “blind” bulbs—bulbs that produce foliage but no flowers—the following season.
Step-by-Step Guide to Moving Bulbs
The physical process begins with carefully lifting the bulbs from the soil using a garden fork or spade, inserting the tool about six inches away from the foliage clump to avoid slicing the bulbs. Dig deeply enough to get beneath the entire cluster, then gently lift the clump and shake off the excess soil to expose the individual bulbs. If the foliage is still attached but brown, it can be used as a handle to lift the clump.
Once out of the ground, separate the overcrowded clumps by gently pulling the smaller offset bulbs away from the larger mother bulb. Discard any bulbs that feel soft, mushy, or show signs of disease or damage. When replanting, the general rule is to set the bulb at a depth that is two to three times its height, or about 4 to 8 inches deep for most common varieties, with the pointed end facing up. Space the bulbs approximately three to six inches apart to allow room for future multiplication before covering them with soil.
Post-Transplant Care and Re-establishment
After the bulbs are placed in their new location, the first step is to water the area thoroughly. This initial soaking helps settle the soil around the relocated bulbs and encourages the quick re-establishment of root growth. If the soil is poor, a light application of a low-nitrogen, high-potash fertilizer can be added during planting to support root development.
It is important to manage expectations for the first growing season after transplanting. The bulbs have used considerable energy to establish new roots in the new site, and this redirection of resources may result in sparse or non-existent blooms. The bulb will rebuild its energy reserves and should return to its full flowering potential in the second year following the move.