Tulips are perennial plants, but many gardeners lift the bulbs annually. This prevents overcrowding, which diminishes bloom size, and ensures proper dormancy and chilling in warmer climates. Lifting the bulbs allows for the division of new offsets and provides a controlled environment for storage until the next autumn planting season. The timing of this excavation is crucial, as it directly impacts the bulb’s ability to flower next spring.
Identifying the Ideal Time for Lifting
The most important factor for lifting tulip bulbs is the complete natural dieback of the foliage. This typically occurs six to eight weeks after the blooms fade, usually by late spring or early summer. The leaves must turn fully yellow or brown and become limp, detaching easily with a gentle tug. This visual signal indicates that the plant has completed nutrient translocation.
During this period, the green leaves continue photosynthesis, converting sunlight into energy stored in the bulb for the following year’s growth. Removing the leaves while they are still green cuts this nutrient supply short, essentially starving the bulb and resulting in weak or absent flowers the next season. Premature removal of the foliage significantly reduces the bulb’s vigor. Patience is required until the foliage is entirely withered and dry.
The Proper Process for Excavation
To begin the lifting process, use a garden fork rather than a spade or shovel. The rounded tines of the fork are less likely to accidentally slice or damage the delicate bulbs. Begin digging several inches away from the withered stem, gently working the fork into the soil beneath the bulbs. The goal is to loosen the surrounding soil and lift the entire cluster without causing trauma to the bulb structure.
Once lifted, carefully brush off the majority of the clinging soil, taking care not to rub the bulbs too vigorously or remove the protective outer tunic. Avoid washing the bulbs with water, as introducing moisture at this stage increases the risk of fungal diseases and rot during storage. The remaining dead foliage and old roots should be trimmed away with clean shears, leaving the firm, main bulb structure. If the mother bulb has produced small, attached offsets, these should be separated gently for storage and replanting.
Curing and Storing Bulbs
After excavation, the bulbs require a short “curing” period to dry the outer layers and seal minor wounds. Place the bulbs in a single layer on a wire rack or screen in a dark, warm, and well-ventilated location. A garage or shed is often suitable, provided the area is protected from direct sunlight and humidity. Curing typically takes 48 hours to one week, until the bulbs feel dry and papery to the touch.
For long-term summer storage, the environment must be cool and dry to prevent premature sprouting or decay. A temperature range between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit is optimal for maintaining dormancy and promoting flower formation. Store the cured bulbs in breathable containers such as mesh bags, paper bags, or open-weave crates, ensuring constant air circulation. Inspect the stored bulbs periodically, discarding any that become soft, moldy, or diseased.