The Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is a popular bulb prized for its large, spectacular winter blooms. Successful reblooming relies on mimicking the plant’s natural dry, cool period. For gardeners outside frost-free zones or those controlling the timing of the next flower display, lifting the bulb and enforcing controlled dormancy is necessary. This process allows the bulb to rest and consolidate the energy reserves required to develop a new flower stalk.
Preparing the Amaryllis for Dormancy
Preparation for dormancy begins with a deliberate change in the care routine after the plant has spent the summer months building energy. The goal is to encourage the large, strap-like leaves to transfer their stored carbohydrates back into the bulb before they naturally die back. This energy transfer fuels next season’s flowers.
Gardeners should cease fertilization by late summer, typically around late August or early September, to halt new foliar growth. This signals the plant that its active growing season is nearing an end. Following this, the water supply must be gradually reduced over a period of about six to eight weeks.
This slow reduction in moisture forces the plant into a resting state by simulating the onset of a dry season. Once the foliage begins to show signs of yellowing and wilting, stop watering. The potted plant can then be moved to a sheltered location protected from rain and direct sun, allowing the soil to dry out completely.
This forced decline ensures the maximum amount of energy is pulled from the leaves into the bulb tissue. A healthy, firm bulb with sufficient stored energy guarantees future blooms.
Identifying the Optimal Time for Lifting
The moment an Amaryllis bulb is ready to be lifted is determined by visual cues from the foliage, signaling that the bulb’s energy-storing work is complete. The primary indicator is when the leaves have turned entirely yellow and collapsed naturally. This confirms that the bulb has successfully absorbed the necessary nutrients from the dying leaves.
For bulbs grown outdoors, timing is dictated by environmental factors, primarily the threat of cold weather. Hippeastrum bulbs are not frost-tolerant, so they must be lifted before the first expected hard frost of late fall. Digging up the bulb or bringing the potted plant inside before temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C) prevents freeze damage.
If the Amaryllis has been grown indoors or kept in a pot outside, the gardener has more control over the schedule. The bulb should be lifted or moved to a cool, dark storage location approximately eight to ten weeks after the initial preparation phase began. This controlled timing allows the gardener to schedule the bulb’s re-emergence for a specific desired rebloom date, often around the winter holidays.
The bulb should feel firm and heavy at the time of lifting, indicating it is dense with stored food and water. A soft or mushy bulb suggests rot or insufficient preparation.
Curing and Storing Amaryllis Bulbs
Once the bulb is lifted from the soil, cleaning and curing are required to prepare it for long-term dormancy. After digging, gently brush away any excess soil adhering to the bulb’s surface and roots. The remaining dried, yellowed foliage should be trimmed back, leaving a short stub of about one to two inches above the neck of the bulb.
The roots should also be pruned back to a few inches, but take care not to damage the basal plate, the flat area at the base where new roots emerge. Following cleaning, the bulb must undergo curing to prevent rot during storage. This involves allowing the bulb’s exterior to dry completely in a warm, airy, and shaded location for several days.
Storage conditions are important for maintaining dormancy and preventing premature sprouting. The Amaryllis bulb requires a cool, dark, and dry environment where the temperature remains consistently between 40 and 55°F (4 and 13°C). A basement or unheated closet is often ideal, provided the area is protected from freezing temperatures.
The bulb can be wrapped individually in newspaper or placed within a breathable material like peat moss or dry sand. This protects the bulb from excessive desiccation and ensures air circulation, preventing moisture buildup that could lead to fungal diseases. The bulb should rest in these conditions for a minimum of eight weeks before being brought out for the next growing cycle.