Centipede grass is a popular turf variety across the Southern United States, valued for its low-maintenance requirements and distinct apple-green color. This slow-growing, warm-season grass is common from the Carolinas westward across the Southern Coastal Plains. In cooler months, the grass turns straw-brown, signaling it has entered its protective winter phase. The transition back to its signature green hue relies heavily on environmental conditions.
Understanding Winter Dormancy
Centipede grass enters dormancy as a protective measure against prolonged cold temperatures, helping the plant survive the winter. Active growth stops when temperatures drop consistently, especially when frost occurs, and the above-ground blades lose their chlorophyll. This browning means the plant’s energy is directed below the soil line to protect the crown and root system.
This warm-season turf is generally less cold-tolerant than other turfgrasses like Bermuda grass or Zoysia grass. Repeated hard freezes can sometimes lead to winter kill or injury, which manifests as dead patches in the spring. In very mild climates, the grass may remain partially green throughout the winter, leaving it more vulnerable to damage from a sudden cold snap.
Key Factors Determining Green Up Timing
The return to an active green state is primarily dictated by temperature and day length, with soil warmth being the most significant trigger. Centipede grass typically begins to break dormancy when the soil temperature, measured at a four-inch depth, consistently reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Soil temperature is a more reliable indicator than air temperature, which can fluctuate.
Depending on the geographic location, this consistent soil warmth can occur from early to mid-April in the northern parts of the Centipede belt, such as coastal North Carolina. Areas further south, like parts of Florida or the Gulf Coast, may see green-up begin much earlier, often in March. Full green-up requires consistently warm air temperatures, often in the 65 to 70-degree Fahrenheit range.
Essential Spring Care for Successful Transition
The first step in spring maintenance is waiting until the lawn is visibly breaking dormancy before applying any growth-stimulating product. Applying fertilizer too early, before the grass is actively growing, increases the risk of cold damage if a late frost occurs. Once the grass shows signs of greening, the first mowing should be done at a height of 1 to 2 inches, never removing more than one-third of the blade height at one time.
Centipede grass has a low nutrient requirement and is sensitive to excessive nitrogen, which can lead to thatch buildup and disease susceptibility. The first fertilization should use a low-nitrogen formula, often with a high iron content to enhance the grass’s natural color without forcing excessive growth. Fertilize with a low nitrogen product around late April or early May, waiting until the lawn is fully greened up. Managing thatch, the layer of organic debris between the grass and soil, is also important, as excessive thatch can trap moisture and increase the risk of disease.
Troubleshooting Delayed or Uneven Green Up
If the centipede grass is slow to green up or exhibits patchy, uneven color, several underlying issues may be at fault. A common cause of poor color is iron chlorosis, which presents as a noticeable yellowing of the blades, even when temperatures are favorable. This condition occurs because Centipede grass requires acidic soil, ideally with a pH around 5.5, and a higher soil pH prevents the plant from properly absorbing available iron.
Another concern is damage from winter kill, which appears as large, irregularly shaped brown or dead patches that fail to green up. This is often the result of prolonged cold exposure or a late-season frost that damaged the shallow root system and stolons. Spring fungal diseases, such as large patch, can also suppress recovery. This disease develops in cool, wet conditions and can be identified by circular areas of yellow or brown grass that have a distinct orange or yellow margin. Soil testing is the most accurate way to diagnose nutrient deficiencies or pH issues preventing a successful spring transition.