Caladiums, often called “Angel Wings” or “Elephant Ear,” are tropical perennial plants prized for their striking, multicolored foliage. Originating from the warm, humid forests of Central and South America, these tuberous plants require a period of rest, or dormancy. During dormancy, all visible growth dies back, but the underground tuber remains alive to sustain the plant. This natural rhythm ensures the caladium reliably returns to display its vibrant leaves the following season.
Understanding the Dormancy Period
The caladium’s transition into a resting phase is triggered by environmental cues signaling the end of the warm, wet growing season. This usually begins in the fall as daylight hours shorten and air temperatures consistently drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The plant responds by withdrawing energy and nutrients from the leaves back into the subterranean tuber.
This stored energy allows the plant to regenerate when favorable conditions return. Once the foliage has withered, the tuber can be left in the ground in frost-free zones. In cooler regions, however, it must be lifted and stored. The ideal storage environment is dry, dark, and cool, maintained above 60 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent freezing or rotting. Storing tubers in a dry medium like vermiculite or peat moss ensures they do not lose too much moisture or become susceptible to fungal issues over the winter months.
Seasonal Timing for New Growth
The return of the caladium is dictated by the sustained presence of warmth, reflecting its tropical origins. For new growth to initiate, the surrounding air temperature must be consistently at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Critically, the soil temperature must reach a minimum of 65 degrees Fahrenheit, with 70 degrees Fahrenheit being optimal for rapid sprouting.
Planting the tubers before the soil has adequately warmed will delay sprouting and increase the risk of the tuber rotting in the cold, damp earth. This means the caladium typically returns in late spring or early summer, well after the last predicted frost date. Gardeners wait until consistent warmth is established to ensure the tuber breaks dormancy and quickly produces new foliage.
Essential Steps to Initiate Sprouting
Gardeners can proactively encourage the tuber to emerge from its winter rest once environmental conditions are met. Before planting, inspect stored tubers for any soft or mushy spots, which indicate rot. Damaged tissue should be carefully cut away, and the cut surface allowed to dry for a few days to form a protective callous.
The tuber should be planted shallowly, approximately 1.5 to 2 inches below the soil surface, ensuring the “eyes,” or growth buds, are facing upward. To speed up the awakening process, especially when starting indoors, placing the pot on a heat mat or in a warm location near 70 degrees Fahrenheit is effective. This concentrated warmth mimics the tropical soil temperatures that cue the tuber to begin growth.
After potting, water the soil thoroughly once, then keep it barely moist until the first shoots break the surface. Overwatering at this stage is a common mistake that leads to rot, as the tuber has no leaves to process excess moisture. Once new leaves unfurl, a regular watering schedule can be established.