Peonies are perennial plants known for their longevity, often thriving in the same location for decades. Gardeners usually move them only out of necessity, such as when the site becomes too shaded, blooming declines, or the root mass requires division. Moving or dividing an established peony is a sensitive process that requires precise timing and technique to ensure successful re-establishment and future flowering.
Optimal Timing for Peony Relocation
The best time to dig up and transplant peonies is during the late summer and early autumn, typically from September through October in most temperate regions. This period is preferred because the herbaceous peony plant is entering its natural dormant phase, which significantly minimizes the stress of relocation. By this time, the foliage has completed its role for the season, transferring the plant’s stored energy back down into the root system.
Transplanting during this window allows the roots several weeks to settle and begin growing new feeder roots before the ground freezes. This establishment period gives the plant a foundation to support rapid growth and flowering the following spring. Moving a peony in the spring is possible, but the plant often diverts energy away from root development to support new foliage, which can delay or prevent blooming for a season.
Preparing and Dividing the Peony Clump
Before digging, the first step is to cut the existing foliage down to just a few inches above the soil line. This removes potential fungal diseases and provides a clearer view of the planting area. Next, a shovel or garden fork should be used to dig a wide circle at least 12 to 18 inches away from the center of the plant to preserve the extensive root system.
The entire root ball must be lifted carefully, avoiding damage to the brittle, fleshy roots by gently prying the clump out of the ground. Washing the soil off with a garden hose exposes the small, pink or red buds, known as “eyes,” located at the top of the root crown. These eyes are the growth points for the next season’s stems and flowers.
A sharp, clean knife or spade is then used to divide the root mass into smaller sections. Each new division must contain a healthy portion of the fleshy storage roots and, most importantly, at least three to five visible eyes. Divisions with fewer than three eyes will likely take much longer to mature and may not produce flowers for several years.
Replanting and Post-Transplant Care
The success of the transplanted peony depends on the depth at which the new division is set. The eyes must be positioned no more than 1 to 2 inches below the final soil surface. Planting the eyes deeper than this shallow range is the most common reason peonies fail to bloom, resulting in a healthy plant that produces only foliage.
The new planting site should receive a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight and have well-draining soil, as peonies struggle in soggy conditions. Dig the hole wide enough to accommodate the entire root system comfortably. Consider mixing in compost to improve the soil structure and nutrient content. After placing the division at the correct shallow depth, backfill the hole, gently firming the soil around the roots to eliminate large air pockets.
Immediately after replanting, thoroughly soak the area to settle the soil around the new roots. Consistent watering should continue until the ground freezes, ensuring the soil remains moist but not saturated. In colder zones, applying a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch after the first hard freeze helps prevent the soil from repeatedly freezing and thawing, which can heave the shallowly planted roots out of the ground. Remove this mulch in early spring before new growth appears. A transplanted peony may not produce many flowers in the first year or two as it focuses its energy on rebuilding the root system.