Sumac is a common North American shrub belonging to the Rhus genus, which is prized for its distinct, tart fruit. Historically, the dried berries have been used as a sour, lemon-like spice in Middle Eastern cuisine and are a primary ingredient in the spice blend za’atar. The fresh clusters, known as drupes, are also used to create a refreshing, pink-hued beverage often called “sumac-ade.” The plant’s widespread presence and unique flavor profile make it a popular target for foragers seeking a natural source of tangy seasoning.
Identifying Edible Sumac Species
Foraging for sumac requires a careful distinction between the edible species and its toxic relative, Poison Sumac (Toxicodendron vernix). Edible sumacs, such as Staghorn (Rhus typhina) and Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra), are characterized by their upright, tight, cone-shaped clusters of red berries. Staghorn sumac is easily recognizable by the velvety, reddish-brown hairs covering its young stems.
In stark contrast, Poison Sumac produces loose, drooping clusters of smooth, waxy berries that are white or greenish-white in color. Edible sumac species typically thrive in open, sunny areas like roadsides and dry fields. Poison Sumac is a wetland plant, almost exclusively found in swampy or mucky soil. Always confirm the presence of red, upright fruit and avoid any plant with white berries growing in a wet habitat to ensure safety.
The Ripening Window
The harvest time for sumac berries is primarily determined by the calendar and local climate, generally falling in the late summer and early fall. The ripening period typically begins around mid-July and can extend through September, depending on the specific latitude and weather patterns. Berries that develop earlier in the season often have a higher concentration of the malic and citric acids that provide their signature sourness.
Environmental factors significantly influence the development of the fruit’s flavor. Hot, dry weather helps to intensify the tartness by concentrating the acidic coating on the outside of the drupes. Conversely, heavy rainfall can wash away this water-soluble coating, which substantially diminishes the desired lemony flavor. For this reason, foragers often monitor the weather and plan to harvest after a stretch of dry, sunny days for the best quality spice.
Visual Signs of Peak Ripeness
The most immediate visual cue for peak ripeness is the color of the fruit clusters, which should transition to a deep, vivid crimson red. While the color change is a good general indicator, the texture of the cluster is also important, as the berries should appear dry and powdery rather than wet or mildewed.
The most reliable test for readiness is to taste the outer coating of a single drupe in the cluster. If the berry has a potent, tangy, and distinctly sour flavor, the cluster is ready for harvesting. If the flavor is weak or bland, the fruit needs more time to fully develop its acidic compounds. Avoid clusters that look pale or faded, as this can indicate the flavor has already begun to degrade.
Harvesting and Culinary Use
To harvest the berries, simply use sharp pruning shears or a knife to cut the entire cluster, often called a bob, from the branch. It is highly recommended to harvest before any anticipated rain to preserve the intensely sour coating. Before processing, inspect the clusters carefully for any small insects, such as caterpillars, that may have taken shelter in the dense fruit.
Once harvested, the clusters must be processed quickly to maintain their quality.
Making Sumac-Ade
For making the refreshing beverage, sumac-ade, the clusters should be cold-steeped in water for several hours. This is because hot water can extract bitter tannins from the inner seeds. The resulting liquid should be strained through a fine sieve or cheesecloth to remove the solids and hairs.
Preparing Sumac Spice
For use as a spice, the clusters must be completely dried, either in a low-temperature oven or a dehydrator. They are then ground and sifted to separate the tart outer coating from the woody seeds and stems.